Sunday, November 18, 2012

Day 9 - Sextants and Stars

One unusual feature of this placid passage has been our continued proximity to another boat. 'Melody', with Holger and Roz on board have been within sight for several days, as other boats motor past us. As I mentioned in an earlier post, these immensely experienced sailors enjoy longer passages (Holger sailed for 60 straight days from New Zealand to Victoria, BC this year). This gives them a different perspective from most of us and they have encouraged us to slow down and enjoy the mild conditions, rather than turning on the motor. Most of our friends are now more than 100 miles to the south, having overtaken us during the calms, but some have motored for 36 hours or more. However we have been enjoying the placid days and good conversations with our neighbors via VHF - exchanging recipes, comparing sun sights, and chatting about the stars that are new to us in the southern sky.

It has been frustrating at times, trying to keep the sails filled in 1-4 knots from behind us. There is a ridge of high pressure that often blocks the passage between the tropics and New Zealand. This area is, I believe, called the 'Horse Latitudes' (you can do a Google search to see the various theories why) and was famed in the days of sail, for it's light airs that would have stopped a large vessel in its tracks. However, the pay back comes when you cross over the ridge and slide down the south side towards the lower pressure that is currently sitting off New Zealand. We now have consistent NE winds and light seas under partly cloudy skies.

Rani took a noon site yesterday and was within a couple of miles of her latitude and 4 miles in her longitude - very respectable results for her first solo attempt at this. Holger's had similar results, but told us that his GPS was only 'off' by two miles when verified by his sextant.

At night we have watched 'Te Ra' O Tainui' rise in the northeast. This is a Maori constellation, which translates as 'The Sail of Tainui' - a sailing canoe that brought the Maori's ancestors to New Zealand from Hawaii. 'Matariki' or the Pleiades forms the raised prow, 'Te Kokota' (the Hyades) outlines a triangular sail, and 'Pewa A Tautoru' (Orion's belt) makes up the stern. Incidentally Orion's sword sticks upwards down here, rather than hanging from the belt and this constellation is known 'Te Manu Rore' or the Bird Snare, with the belt as a perch, the bright star, Rigel, as the fruit bait, and the Orion nebulae as the snare. This information was drawn from a little star-gazing booklet that our friend Marcelle on 'Adventure Bound' gave us, entitled "Naked Eye Wonders". Our own guide is limited to the Northern Hemisphere and no use down here.

It was so calm yesterday that we baked pizzas for lunch and the first loaf of bread of this passage. We have been careful with our oven use, but with only a week or so to go to New Zealand, we can now afford to be profligate.

Our position at 7:45 am was 27 51 S 177 24 E and we were making 4-5 knots dues south in about 7-9 knots of NNE breeze.

Saturday, November 17, 2012

Day 8 - Songs and Spinnakers

It was another calm day yesterday, flying the spinnaker half the day and night with a light wind from the east northeast to northeast. We can count the number of times we have used the 'chute this year on one hand as normally the winds are either too light to counteract large swells or too much to handle the sail without risk of a knockdown. But here we have fairly calm seas, so we saved our mainsail and jib from flogging and UV damage by letting them have a holiday. Our speed varied from 2.5 to 3.5 knots with the added gust pushing us past 5 knots. Yes, very exhilarating! At 3.30am we packed it up and went to bed for a couple of hours while the wind played hide and seek.
During the mellow morning, Chris worked out his frustration by writing some sailing lyrics to the music from "The Boxer" by Simon and Garfunkel. He entertained our cruising friends later by singing it on the radio net at noon. Several well-meaning folks suggested he launch his career on "Youtube" and they would provide the backing vocals. Maybe he will make his new career debut in Opua!

Our friends' children on "Long Shot II" played "battleships" with their pals on "Water Music" while some adults sounded like they were having fun playing "Name That Tune", all via VHF. In the evening we learnt that "Long Shot II" were towing "Wondertime" who have engine problems. As I mentioned before, most of the boats on passage from Tonga to NZ are motoring to reach Opua before the next "low" front on Wednesday. Why have never heard of these "doldrums" north of New Zealand?

Our whopping 24 hour daily run for yesterday was 60 miles and our position at 0745 this morning was 26 45S 177 44E

Friday, November 16, 2012

Net Picking - Day 7

Yes, net picking not nit picking! In times past I am sure many would have had to deal with the latter. Try to find a copy of a documentary series called "Ring of Fire" in which the crew of the Bogeys in Indonesia sit around examining each other's heads. The series has some brilliant footage of sailing in the Celebes Sea by two documentary-making English brothers.

Getting back to Ladybug, we are still drifting along with the pumice at speeds varying from 0 to 3 Knots. The winds have been 0-5 Knots from SSE to SSW and we are doing our best to keep the sails happy. Last night we took them down altogether to sleep for five and half hours. Ladybug rolled gently in the slow one meter swells and drifted for a few miles. We peered out every 20 minutes or so to check if anyone else was around. Two other yachts were in the periphery of our horizon but none came close enough to worry about.

Under these mild conditions we have time on our hands, so we spend a lot of it listening to weather forecasters and chatting with our cruising buddies on the single sideband radio. We even have friends within VHF range to commiserate with while we are all stuck in the middle of the "high" for at least another 36 hours. Then we may have to wait for another "low" to pass over the top of New Zealand before we sail for Opua.

Some of the bigger yachts with bigger engines and more diesel have been motoring since yesterday to reach NZ before the "low" transpires next Wednesday. These boats can average 150 miles per day going full tilt with their longer waterline whereas we average nearer 100 miles.

Since we have little chance of beating the front, we are enjoying the summer weather - sunshine and blue skies, flat seas. Good conditions to do some baking. I made a batch of almond squares yesterday, a favourite recipe from my lovely sister-in-law, Jasvir, in Vancouver. No doubt we shall be waddling ashore when we reach Opua!

Our 0745 position this morning was 26 00 South 178 15 East. We made a whopping 69 miles' progress in the last 24 hours.

"Windigo" Update

We received an update on the yacht "Windigo" yesterday via friends on "Long Shot II" who are in touch with the RCCNZ. A vessel called "Follow Me" located "Windigo" at 24 49.3S 179 49.3E at 1522UTC on Nov 12. The yacht seems to have drifted in an easterly direction from its original position and will probably continue in that direction and then NE according to their drift models.

"Follow Me" got tangled with line from a search and rescue life raft that was also drifting nearby at 24 41S 179 59E. They punctured the raft to scuttle it but it is probably still afloat below the water surface and less visible. A second life raft has not yet been located.

Vessels approaching the area close to the above way points should pay attention, especially if motoring.

Thursday, November 15, 2012

Day 6 - Fleeces and blankets

It may be the influence of the cold front that is giving us stable weather, but it is turning decidedly chilly on Ladybug. We put on trousers this morning for the first time and I am wearing a cardigan as I type this message in the pre-dawn glow. Rani is asleep on the settee berth, wrapped snugly in a blanket - another first as we have only recently needed sheets. New Zealand will be a shock to us after 6 months+ in tropical countries.

Yesterday we received good news - the weather looks very stable for the next week except for a low that will pass well south of us. We have also learned that there should be mainly easterly winds on our approach to New Zealand in place of the predominant southwest winds. This allows us to point straight for the island now, rather than running off to the west and should save a day or two on passage. However this could change with no notice...

Determining where to point Ladybug has been a challenge and we have tried to combine the computer generated forecast models with input from forecasters and the observations of boats that are out in front of us. To this, you need to figure in your boat speed, feasible direction, a comfort factor so you will not be bashing into big seas, etc. We have started using the route planning feature of OpenCPN along with its ability to overlay weather forecast data. This still requires manual manipulation but allows one to plot the boat's progress along an imaginary line and see what the winds should be like at each position. I would like to write a software program to help me figure this out, but do not have access to everything I need to do this on board.

We are still sailing through pumice - floating volcanic rock - and discovered some in our raw water strainer for the engine. 'Lisa Kay' who has been sailing in the fleet from Tonga lost their water pump impeller, perhaps due to ingesting pumice, but may also have been due to an old impeller. The water stopped running and the hot exhaust gases melted their muffler. They only noticed this when water was coming into the boat from holes melted in the exhaust system. Fortunately they were able to jury rig a repair and received help from several cruisers to repair the muffler when they made 'landfall' at Minerva Reef. The pumice comes from an eruption that occurred south of Raoul island in the nearby Kermedec islands. Apparently there is a floating island of the stuff 30 by 300 miles wide floating somewhere south of us.

The sailing yesterday was lovely - close reaching in light SE winds. Around dark, the wind died down to zephyrs and we ghosted along all night at 1-2 knots. Rani even hand steered around 3 am for an hour or so to keep us moving.

Our position at 7:45 am on Nov 16 was 25 28 S 179 10 E. We ran exactly 100 nautical miles in the last 24 hours, not bad considering we had almost no wind all night. The wind is back up to a few knots from the SSE, seas are calm, and we are making good progress directly toward the North Cape of New Zealand.

Day 5 - experiencing turbulence

If you have ever been in an airplane when it goes through a pocket of turbulence, then you have some idea of what it is like to sail on a small boat in a rough sea. To make things more interesting, the 'pocket' can last for days, there are no seat belts, and you must do complex tasks like type at a computer or cook a meal while being tossed around like rag dolls. The GPS records how fast the boat is traveling, keeping a record of the maximum speed. It currently reads 83.6 knots - a bit unlikely, but in the last minute I have watched our speed vary from 3 to more than 10 knots as we fall off one wave and run into another.

Yesterday was quite tranquil for much of the daylight hours. We observed a partial solar eclipse (the full effect being seen a few hundred miles south). We used the sextant with its viewing filters to safely view the earth's shadow as it obscured nearly 2/3rds of the sun. Our first albatross paid us a visit around this time - a giant bird that circled the boat a few times. In flight it was graceful - zooming towards us like a fighter plane. Bobbing in the water, however, it looked more like an overgrown and slightly gawky seagull.

The calms seas allowed for the first proper shower of the passage. Oh bliss! Plus it smells better now down below in the closed up confines of a boat at sea.

The tranquility ended around supper time when the southerly breeze freshened and swung gradually into the south/southeast. We have been bouncing along now for more than 12 hours, passing Minerva reef around 9 pm. We did not stop because entering the reef at night would be tricky and also because we have a fair wind for making progress toward New Zealand. We were close enough to see the lights on the masts of the little community of yachts nestled within the reef's protecting ring and we were sad we had to pass it by.

Our position at 7:45 am was 24 09 S 179 49 W: Heading about 220 at a speed of 5 to 6 knots in 12 knots of SSE breeze and 1.5 meter seas. We are sailing under 2-reefed main and partially furled jib. We sailed about 125 miles in the last 24 hours.

Tuesday, November 13, 2012

A Plastic Free Boat

I find myself thinking often about plastics and our impact, in general, on the world out here. The beaches of paradise are littered with plastics. Even remote Suwarrow would yield a few garbage bags full from the small beaches on the main island.

So is it possible to cruise without using plastics? It would certainly reduce our dependence on fossil fuels to do so, but without a huge effort, I think it is not feasible. Too many things we take for granted are made from plastic.

Starting with the boat, we would have to build one from some other material other than fiberglass, which is plastic resin reinforced by glass fibers. Our running rigging would have to be replaced with wood or metal blocks and lines made from natural materials such as hemp or sisal. We would forego electricity on board, because wires and connectors use plastic for insulation and almost all electrical devices are made at least in part from plastic, valuable for its insulating qualities. Reverting to cloth covered wire and wooden/metal appliances might be possible, but the results would be unlikely to hold up in a wet, salty environment. Without electricity, we lose our depth sounder, GPS, and lighting. The latter would need to be done entirely with kerosene and would require lanterns for the running lights (two or three), anchor light, and interior lights. We would have no engine, since the pipes that feed water and the many of gaskets that seal it are made of plastics. Plumbing would also have to be re-done with metal pipes only, sealed with lead or oakum joints. We would have to look long and hard to find a metal compass to navigate by and an all metal sextant for off-shore work. Our chronometer would also need to be all-metal and glass - hand wound. I suspect a 'simple' non-plastic boat would cost more to build and be a pain to maintain.

Re-provisioning would be possible, but difficult, without plastic, since most processed 'foods' are packaged in plastic. We would bring cloth bags to the local market and have to be very choosy as to what we bought in the grocery store. Perhaps this is where we can have the most impact - by buying fewer plastic containers, especially out here in places like Tonga, where most plastic is simply thrown on the ground, burned, or dumped in the ocean.

Day 4 - purring engine

Yesterday saw us making quite good progress from the early morning on. We had sailed under the edge of a bank of low grey clouds, hoping to take advantage of some winds after a too calm night. This proved to be a good move, for while our friends 20 miles away were motoring, we sailed all day in breezes up to 10 knots. The seas were down and the wind only a little behind the beam. Eventually as the wind died down, we unfurled all sail and were still making 4 knots when we noticed around sunset that we would soon sail out from the edge of the front and into clear skies.

As I guessed, this meant the end of our wind, and after sailing southeast (90 degrees from our desired course) for a few hours, we finally lost any semblance of forward movement. There was still enough swell to make taking down all sails and waiting it out an unpleasant prospect, so we started our diesel for the first time on this passage. She has been purring away at 1300 rpm, pushing us at 3.5 to 4 knots for several hours now, while we doze below with ear plugs in to drown out the unaccustomed din.

We had our first movie on passage - a late afternoon matinee, watched while we still had a reliable breeze. The feature presentation was "The Best Years of Our Lives" - a nearly 3 hour long movie about servicemen returning to their US hometown after World War II. This An excellent film with thoughtful dialogue and very good acting. It deals with the difficulties soldiers, sailors, and civilians experienced adjusting to a changed life after the prolonged upheaval of war. Many of the truths the movie explores are still relevant today. I guess this is what makes a classic.

We saw one boat last night, which motored past us maybe 4 miles off as we sailed sluggishly to the southeast. Also, our friends on 'Melody' suffered a broken paddle shaft on their Aries windvane self-steering gear. We checked our Monitor windvane parts, but determined that our shaft replacement piece would not fit their gear, despite the American Monitor being a copy of the British Aries. Holge on Melody believes he can sleeve the shaft with a slightly modified winch handle, but will need to stop in Minerva to make the repair.

We have been sailing through fields of pumice, the detritus of an underwater volcanic explosion that occurred nearby. Apparently the pumice reaches all the way down to New Zealand,. So far, it has not affected our water cooled engine.

At 7:45 we were located at 23 11 S 177 56 W - Te sails are up in 1-2 knots of SW wind and were making 1-2 knots in relatively smooth seas.

Monday, November 12, 2012

Chasing squalls!

It is Day 3 and we are wishing for a little bit of that wind from Day 1. Yesterday was beautiful with the 10-15 ESE, blue skies and sunshine, but just after supper we were shaking the second reef out of the mainsail as wind speed dropped to less than 10 Knots. After midnight, we were being thrown around by 2m swells from south and east and the sails were slatting in less than 5 knots from the east. Neither the windvane nor the tiller pilot were able to hold the SW course to Minerva Reef, so we turned south and then southeast to keep going. Other boats close to us reported that they had either taken the sails down and or switched on the motor at around the same time.

This morning we were excited to see a line of squalls south of us. Wow!Wind! We deliberately changed our course to get some of that wind. And maybe we could get a boat wash at the same time! As we approached the biggest and blackest patch we put a second reef in the main. "Hurrah, we are up to 6 knots plus again!", we sang over the radio net. That elation was short lived. Another hour later we were shaking out the reef again. These squalls seem to be light and static, hardly moving at all, but we are still chasing them to keep moving, even if it is in the wrong direction and at only 4 Knots.

According to the weather sources we will be in zero to light winds for the next two days. This means we may stop at Minerva Reef for a day if we get there in a day or two. But nothing is for certain. At times like this I wish I were on a fast boat like Segue, a large Canadian catamaran which set off later than us from Vava'u but anticipate being in Opua by Friday. They made 224 miles in 24 hours on Day 1!

Our position this morning at 0745 was 21 59 S 176 51 W. We ran 131 miles in 24 hours but probably only 100 in the right direction.

Sunday, November 11, 2012

Position update Day 2

It's Remembrance Day at home - a day later out here and we are enjoying much more peaceful conditions than yesterday - winds 10-15 ESE and seas down below 2 meters. Still bumpy but much less water on deck. Position at 7:45 was S 20 17 W 175 47 - we made 148 nautical miles in the first 24 hours from our anchorage in Vava'u - an average of over 6 knots.

In retrospect, we should have sailed a bit further west to make things a bit less violent on board. Making tea in 3 meter seas and 25 knots is a potentially painful experience. Today we were able to cook and eat porridge with only a slight boil-over.