Alacrity Rocks and Ono Island

Ladybug in Nabouwalu Bay

Ono island lies just north of the large island of Kadavu within the Great Astrolabe reef. We are anchored off the village of Nabouwalu on the west coast of Ono. The winds have swung into the southwest and a very uncomfortable swell is currently rolling into the bay making us wish we had left this afternoon for a safe anchorage at the north end of Ono. Instead we went snorkeling on the Alacrity Rocks after rowing a little over a mile out to the reef in our dinghy.

Soft corals were not common at the Alacrity Rocks

Colorful hard corals and small fish abound

The visibility at Alacrity Rocks was quite good - I would estimate it at well over 15 meters - and the rocks are covered in hectares of colorful hard corals. There were only a few larger fish on the outside of the rocks, perhaps because the tide was still ebbing during our swim. We saw a white tipped shark cruising below us about 10 meters down, a large barracuda-like fish about a meter long, and a baby giant wrasse of perhaps half a meter. I was surprised to see few soft corals, but there were some colorful patches of these on the seaward side of a couple of the rocks.

Anemone fish 

Closeup of Anemone Fish and shy friend (behind)

Rani checks out a spectacular formation

There are fissures and tunnels in several places and I swam down through one of the tunnels a few times filming a video on my second and third attempts. I will try to post one of these when I can access a fast computer to process them.

Vagabond Butterfly Fish

There were large schools of small fish on the seaward side of several rocks

Rani swims over while I dive to photograph a school of fish

We have been enjoying getting to know the villagers, who are friendly to yachties. Today the chief's wife and daughter served us a 'porridge' from pumpkin, pawpaw  (papaya), and coconut milk. The first 2 ingredients are cooked together and the result is of the texture of porridge with (predictably) a sweet pumpkin taste. We also tried making cassava pancakes yesterday but did not get the same results as the locals do. It has been quite interesting trying to eat more the way the locals do, although I cannot see myself consuming the large amounts of taro, cassava, and other starchy roots that make up the typical diet here.

After a 2.5 mile row and a couple of hours of snorkeling we went for a walk on the beach and put in some bouldering on the craggy volcanic rocks.

Nice beach with a few good shells. The beach is just north of Nabouwalu Bay and can be reached from the village. The island marks the north side of Nabouwalu Bay

Aisea sketches the villages of Ono island  on a map for us.

Sunday - Desert Island Day

Last night the wind blew 20 Knots from the southeast as we sat at anchor off Namara Island. We are in fairly shallow water here (18ft) with only 50 feet of chain out, trying to avoid wrapping around the bommies nearby. As the wind came whistling over the low hills of the island and Ladybug pirouetted around her anchor, the chain began to growl over the rocks and we had to abandon our v-berth bed for the salon settees. We managed to sleep soundly despite the scraping and moaning.

We awoke to a leaden sky and the wind continued wailing. Hot porridge and a nice chat with our friend Rich on s/v Legacy on the single sideband started the day right. However, I started feeling restless by mid-morning despite my best attempt at sudoku and a novel. So we rowed ashore armed with machete, matches, foil-wrapped yams, a couple of coconuts and a coconut grater.

I forgot to mention that yesterday there was a foul smell was emanating from the veggie larder and I had drowned a couple of yams which had little bugs crawling on them. BUT, the smell was worse this morning and we discovered the real culprit - a broken egg. Parts of it were stuck to the box, so that's when we had the briliant idea of a fire on the beach - to get rid of the smelly cardboard box.

Anyway, back on the beach, we gathered some old coconut husks, bamboo sticks and palm fronds and Chris worked very hard to get the fire going. Later, he placed the yams and half a coconut to roast on the hot embers while I sat on a tree trunk grating the rest of the coconuts. It felt like we were truly on a desert island. Ladybug has been the only boat here for the last two days and we had the beach all to ourselves. While the yams were still cooking, we beachcombed for shells and chomped on chunks of hot smoky coconut meat. It tasted absolutely delicious! We thought of our friends on Rabi Island who had given them to us six weeks ago.

Back on the boat, we decided to swim and snorkel to get rid  of the smoke smell clinging to our bodies and clothing. Despite the chilly wind, Chris jumped in wearing only his undies. I put on my shorty wetsuit; after all it is barely above 70 degrees Fahrenheit!
The visibility was pretty good even in the choppy conditions and there were lots of little fish and bright corals. I stayed in a little longer and saw a small white tip shark, inevitable really, as I am afraid of them!!

For supper, Chris squeezed the grated coconut wrapped in a thin napkin to make "lolo", thick coconut cream, which we later used as a dip for the yam and, for Chris, chunky tuna. Dessert was a tropical fruit plate of banana, papaya and pineapple drizzled with lolo and sprinkled with shredded coconut. We felt Fijian but real Fijians would have picked the coconuts, grown the yams and caught the fish!

These blue green chromis fish are always delightful to watch - popping out of the coral like flower petals opening

Not sure if this is some type of trumpet fish

Dravuni to Namara

Dravuni island was the first remote island we have visited where the economy is not mainly based on subsistence farming and fishing with a little copra thrown in. While there are plantations here and we met one boat load of fishermen, the majority of motorized long boats appear to be used mainly for transport.

Strumming in the cockpit

A cruise ship visits here once a month and disgorges 1300 people. You can imagine how this must change the life in a small village of maybe 200 souls. There are washrooms set up near the shore and what look like a series of stands presumably to sell crafts on the big day. There is also a substantial wharf under construction. The pilings are in place and a great stack of aluminum sections and floats await being pieced to together. I presume this will allow the cruise ship launches to land more easily at what would otherwise be a steep and surfy beach landing. The men are also busy working to build a resort at Yaukuvelevu, an island a few miles away that is under the domain of Dravuni. We were treated with courtesy when we did our sevusevu, but I got the feeling that visitors from far away are no longer a novelty here, at least to the adults. Children (as on every island we have visited here) seem happy to see new faces and were curious about us.

Ladybug anchored off Namara Island

However, we enjoyed our brief stay at Dravuni. The walk up the hill gives lovely views and we also crossed the island and walked back along the beaches around the north half of the island. But, we were looking for some privacy and our anchorage off the village was rolly and the water a little cloudy for snorkeling. So we sailed a couple of miles across the lagoon to Namara.

Wrasse on the reef off Namara

Namara is a small island under the control of the villagers at Dravuni. The anchorage is sandy, but full of scattered coral heads. I think there may have been a village here once or at least a fishing camp, for there is ample flat land on the leeward side of the island, with a nice beach to pull up your sailing canoes. Fruit bats squeal in the trees and there are a couple of small islands almost attached to the main one, which make for delightful snorkeling. The water is quite clear and there are plenty of hard corals and small fish.

Sailing back from Alacrity Pass in the dinghy

Alacrity Pass is 1.5 miles away and a few days ago with light wind and a small chop, we sailed across the lagoon in our dinghy. We anchored north of the pass and snorkeled around the walls and canyons that lead to the pass itself. In addition to large number of colorful hard corals and smaller fish, there were several schools of parrot and surgeon fish. Rani brought her shark stick (a broom handle) with her but we saw only one small black tipped reef shark, which high-tailed it out of our way as soon as it saw us.

Moray eel at Alacrity Pass - the head is almost a foot from top to bottom and don't you love those blue eyes!

The highlight of our snorkel was a large moray eel in a crevice very close to where we anchored our dinghy. Visibility was good except where quantities of what looked like eggs were drifting in dense clouds, almost like pollen in the air.

Sea slug or Beche de mer  caused a sort of  'gold rush' here in the 1830's when it was discovered that the Chinese would pay fabulous sums for these creatures when smoked and dried . They are still harvested for the Chinese market.

On our return trip we landed on the small island to the north of Namara and Rani gathered some shells from the beach. This little island looks like what you would imagine a cast-away's desert island should look, with a few coconut palms overlooking a white sand beach.

Our dinghy with sail brailed on the little island north Namara

At the little island north of Namara

Dravuni Island

After more than a week in Suva, we sailed from our anchorage near Lami at 5 am yesterday. Getting out of the anchorage was a little tricky in the dark, but we followed a series of GPS waypoints from when we arrived that took us between two small islands and the fringing reefs. The wreck of a fishing boat on the reef to our starboard was visible in the light of my headlamp - a reminder that careful navigation is required in these waters.

Rani walks up the hill on Dravuni. Ladybug is anchored halfway between Rani and the small island.

We had waited an extra day for the winds to swing more into the east because the course to the Great Astrolabe Reef is just slightly east of south. The prevailing SE trades would have made this almost dead to windward. We had to motor to clear the wind shadow and rain squalls that seem to prevail off Suva, but about 6 miles out we started to feel a wind, which filled in and came from well to the east of south. We were able to lay a course for the Herald Pass, close reaching into 8 to 10 knots of wind.

An interesting variegated leaf - red at the base.

The big island of Kadavu and numerous smaller islands including Ono and our destination of Dravuni are protected by one of the world's largest barrier reefs. The Great Astrolabe Reef (not to be confused with the Astrolabe Reef in New Zealand) was named by the French explorer Dumont dUrville for his vessel Astrolabe. This is an area famous for clear water and good diving and snorkeling.

On Dravuni there is a path just inside the jungle that runs between the beach and a series of plantations.

We plan to spend a couple of weeks here, working our way south, visiting Ono and Kadavu, and snorkeling some passes and reefs.

Hindu Fire Walking in Suva

Indians have been in Fiji since the mid-nineteenth century when they were brought over as indentured workers for the sugarcane plantations owned by the British settlers. With them came the centuries old Hindu religion and associated rituals.

Classic Indian dancing and music preceded the fire walking

We were privileged to attend one of the most interesting and unique festivals here in Suva, dedicated to the Goddess Durga. We watched about a dozen men with multiple body piercings march across a hot bed of charcoal at the Raj Maha Mariamman Temple.

While much of the Mariamman temple is of simple design, this dome stood out for its remarkable decorations.

Purified women await the entry of the fire walkers and priests

The Goddess Durga represents the active side of the energy ("shakti") of Lord Shiva and is usually portrayed carrying weapons in her many arms. She is the protector of the righteous and destroyer of the evil.

Priest making an offering to the goddess.

Musicians lead in the fire walkers

Kali, or the dark goddess, is the fearful and ferocious form of the mother goddess Durga.

In southern India, the celebration usually takes place in the pre-monsoon season and poojadaris (worshipers) pray for rain.  In Fiji, where there is plenty of rain, the celebrants give thanks to the mother Goddess for blessings received and as a vow pledged for some special request. They eat only vegetarian food in the preceding ten days, pray morning and night, and fast for 24 hours.

The fire walkers arrive

On Sunday morning, the celebrants had their bodies skewered with foot long sharp metal tridents, commonly through the ears, lips, arms, chest and back, bathed in the sea, and walked/danced two miles to the temple on Howell Road.

The fire walkers pass across the pit of coals several times.

Some walk a well-trodden center path, but others stride through the ashes

After the priests blessed them at the gates, they walked clockwise around the temple and crossed the fire pit. This was repeated at least three times. The musicians played a haunting melody beside the pit and some of the participants seemed to be in a trance.

Piercings and markings

A particularly fine set of piercings. These tridents are removed immediately after the circuits of the temple.

During the circuits of the temple, the purified anointed themselves with sindoor, which is supposed to ward off evil 

How do these men suffer body piercing and walk across fire? The devotees say they feel no pain as they are totally focused on their devotions to the Goddess and have achieved a state of "grace" through the purification process.

Durga is carried around the temple behind the fire walkers

Close-up of  mother Goddess Durga

Kali  carries a bloody trident - an instrument of war.

Kali also carried a whip

Studies as early as the 1930's have shown that ordinary people can walk across coals. This is possible because wood in general and charcoal in particular are poor thermal conductors and a layer of ash further insulates the feet from the heat. Furthermore, the feet are only in contact with the hot coals for a second or so over a typical fire-walking bed (24 feet). As long as people walk reasonably quickly but not run, there will not be enough time for their feet to heat up to the point where they will suffer burns (although some walkers may suffer blistering in the arches of their feet or between their toes). We did see one young boy grimace in pain and abort his attempt after taking two or three steps, but the remainder of the fire walkers were not visibly harmed.

This man with his remarkable piercings walked serenely across the coals and appeared to be in a trance.

Fire walkers dancing as they approach the pit.

At this temple, women are not permitted to walk across the fire, but many take part in the purification and make circuits of the temple.

Hibiscus Festival

A few pictures from the Hibiscus Festival carnival grounds and parade. Chris worked on beefing up the backing behind one of our stanchions with some glass, wood, and epoxy, while I spent the day in town to see the parade. It was not up to the standard of the Mexican parades, except for the bands, which I preferred due to their melodious playing and slick dance moves.

There were 8 Ferris wheels at the carnival grounds. This one is run through an old truck trans-axle.

Marching band 

We think these guys guard the government buildings

Some great performers.

Parade float

And another parade float

Suva and the Fiji Museum

It rains almost every day in Suva. On the plus side - our water tanks are full and we have been enjoying luxurious (for us) bucket showers in the cockpit.

A rainy day in the anchorage off the Novotel hotel. There are 5 free moorings here owned by Tony Philip, who also owns the Vuda Point marina and the Copra Shed in Savusavu.

Catholic cathedral on a dramatic day

We are anchored near the town of Lami about 4 kms outside of Suva. Each day we take the Shore Bus into Suva. The town spreads up a hill and out into surrounding lowlands. The streets are winding and it is quite easy to get disoriented. The buildings are a hodge-podge with a few interesting ones left over from the colonial era. The bay is packed with foreign trawlers and cargo vessels. We were told that some vessels were here because they had been impounded for illegal fishing. There is a huge vegetable and fruit market each day beside the bus station and a regular fish market along a canal. Indian restaurants are plentiful and cheap. You can get a nice filling meal for under $4 Canadian ($6 Fijian) and street food (e.g., fish and cassava) for less than $3 Fijian.

Foreign fishing vessels - mostly from China and Taiwan

The highlights of our visit (apart from my new crown) have been the Hibiscus festival - a yearly event, with which our visit just happened to coincide, a visit to the Fiji Museum, and yesterday, a Hindu fire walking ceremony.

The Fiji  Museum ($7 entry) is a low-key but fascinating place. The main entrance hall houses a number of sailing canoes including a double hulled canoe (drua) built in 1913 and a gigantic bamboo raft. These rafts are still used for trading on the rivers of Viti Levu.

100 year old drua. The white decorations are shells. A massive steering oar was used to direct the vessel and required three men in a strong wind. 

Story of  Rev Thomas Baker

The museum also houses historical exhibits of the peoples who came to Fiji,  including Tongans, Solomon Islanders, Indo-Fijians, Polynesian Islanders, missionaries, and European traders. We had heard of the exhibit about the unfortunate Rev. Thomas Baker from reading "Getting Stoned with Savages". The exhibit explained the true story of Baker, a Methodist minister who was killed and eaten by natives after he slighted a 'Christian' chief by holding a meeting at a rival village. The display includes parts of Baker's boot, a bible, and a fork and bowl supposedly used in his consumption.

Reverend Baker's effects

Fork and bowl used to eat parts of Baker

As an aside, I have been reading a fascinating book written by a woman named Wallis who accompanied her husband on a lengthy trading trip through Fiji in the 1840's. The book called "Life in Feejee - Five Years among the Cannibals" describes the state of almost perpetual warfare and cannibalism at this period when the islands were still independent of Britain and the missionaries and traders were making their first forays. It is no surprise that the occasional white man or ship of sailors ended up as dinner when cannibalism was a daily occurrence. Powerful chiefs had almost unlimited power and deceit and trickery were common tools used to defeat an enemy. You can download this book as an e-book from the library of congress archive.

Whale tooth Tabua offered to the Methodist Church (many years later) by way of apology

The museum has a small exhibit on local flora and fauna including the 2nd largest beetle in the world.

I would not want  to find one of these in my bed!

Crowned in a Day

We called on Monday, the day we arrived in Suva, and were fortunate to get an appointment at the office of Dr. Vikash Singh, an Australian trained dentist first thing the next morning. By 5pm I had a new crown on the molar that I had broken several weeks earlier. The procedure was nearly painless and the crown fits perfectly.

Dr. Singh has a computer controlled crown milling machine (CEREC), which allows him to create the crown in his office rather than sending the casts made from my mouth off to Hong Kong or Australia to have the crown made (with a 4 week delay). This dentist also has the most amazing camera built into the dental inspection lamp, which allows you to see gory close-ups of the inside of your mouth from various angles and lighting conditions. These are shown on a flat screen TV just like you see in sports bars these days.

Total cost including a full mouth X-Ray and 3 visits (all in the same day) was about $600 Canadian - expensive in Fijian terms (more than a month's wages for a manual labourer) but reasonable when you compare this to similar work done in the UK or Canada. His other fees are much lower (I picked the most expensive regular procedure he does). E.g., 40 to 70 Canadian dollars for a filling.

So to any cruiser considering dental work in Fijj, I cannot recommend this fellow highly enough. He is on Stewart street in Suva and can be reached at 330-8882 or email at drsingh at connect.com.fj

Sailing to Suva

We decided to break up the passage from Levuka to Suva with a stop over in Leleuvia. We sailed off the hook in Levuka, getting away on the wrong tack, headed straight for the shore a few hundred meters off. As I hurriedly winched in the rest of the chain, Rani rolled out part of the jib (the main already being up) and put us about quickly and neatly. We had a few tense moments avoiding uncharted coral heads as we beat out through the pass in the reef.

Once outside, we had a nice 8-10 knot ESE wind. I laid a course close-hauled to the NE for a few miles and we then tacked and were able to point south for pass into the Moturiki channel, skirting the reef as we went. There was a light chop but the consistent breeze kept Ladybug moving along well, heeled over at about 10 degrees. I was very glad we had waited for the much stronger SE winds of the previous day to die down. It is so much more pleasant when beating to do so in lighter winds and moderate seas!

The scenery on the passage was very lovely with the long thing shores of Moturiki island providing a green foreground to Ovalau's mountainous contours. As we reacehd up the channel to our anchorage, we saw a resort boat running tourists out to a nearby motu and Fijian longboats (outboard skiffs) running back and forth between the resort on Leleuvia and the nearby islands.

We anchored twice off the coral reef to the NE of Leleuvia, but were not happy to be so close to the corals. So we upped anchor and tied off to a mooring ball off the resort. We stayed only one night but managed to get in two delightful snorkeling trips at the reef.

Suva is about 45 or 50 miles from Leleuvia. This is just a bit too far to sail in daylight, so we opted for an overnight crossing. We left in the middle of the afternoon from Leleuvia so that we would have good visibility when tacking out of the pass. Once again, we sailed on a long board out to the NE before tacking at dusk and heading south. The wind held until early in the morning and we close-reached under 2-reefed main and partial jib with the wind vane steering. Around 3 am the wind went fluky and light in squalls and drizzle about 10 miles out from the approaches to Suva harbour. Perhpas due to effects from the island of Viti Levu, the wind clocked around 180 degrees, blowing out of the NW. We beat our way towards the glow of Suva, following the lights from one of the ships that had passed us earlier.

Suva harbour is crowded with commercial fishing fleets from various Asian countries. The yacht club anchorage is surrounded by these larger boats and we had read that holding can be poor and the conditions here unpleasant in a stronger wind. So we decided to anchor off a hotel near Lami in what is reputed to be a good hurricane hole. We will be here a few days while I attend to a broken tooth.