Wednesday, November 6, 2013

Boat Showers

The true cost of a boat shower.

Something most of us take for granted at home in Canada is the daily hot shower. However, out here we rarely enjoy a hot shower. In fact, Rani tells me that the last one she had was on August 3rd, over 3 months ago. Strangely, we have come to accept this and a simple but pleasurable alternative in these warmer climates is the 'balti bath' (the Punjabi term for bucket bath). On sunny days, we usually fill our small orange bucket with between 6 and 8 litres of collected rain water and place this in the sun to warm up. On a cloudy day or when we are impatient, we heat up about 1/4 of this water in a saucepan over the propane stove to take the edge off it.

Many cruisers we know, especially on smaller boats do something similar, perhaps using a camp solar shower (a black plastic bag with a small shower head hose). On larger boats, even where there is an indoor shower, the owners often use an outdoor alternative to avoid filling the boat with mildew-causing steamy air. Many newer boats are fitted with a wash down hose near the transom for just this purpose.

Initially, especially in colder weather, we discussed the merits of installing a shower on Ladybug. However, when the true costs are added up, I think most people would think twice about this. For a start you ideally need a boat large enough for a separate shower stall. The smallest boat we have seen with this was a Pearson 365 at around 36 feet, but the shower is often combined with the toilet on boats even as large as 40 feet. This is inconvenient because you need to put away all toiletries before and then wipe down everything after you shower. You could easily add tens of thousands of dollars to the cost of your boat to buy one large enough for a separate shower stall.

Next you need a way to heat the shower water. On most of the boats we looked at buying, the hot water heater (combined AC and engine heated) was in need of repair, so this is clearly both a capital cost and one that requires regular maintenance or replacement. We looked at an on-demand propane solution, but this is neither legal nor practical on a smaller tilty sail boat and would probably succumb to corrosion fairly quickly in this salty environment.

You also need pressure water and the pumps and (optional) accumulator tank needed for this are not cheap. We use foot pumps on Ladybug that are now 25 years old and as far as I know have not required any servicing. The pressure pump on my last boat was quite reliable, but did require a rebuild after a year or two.

Often overlooked, is the cost of obtaining enough water to take even a short shower. At 9 litres per minute, a 2 minute shower will use nearly 5 gallons. Two people will need about 10 gallons per day. Assuming a typical boat tankage of between 50 and 100 gallons, you are likely going to need a water maker to keep up with this demand on any but the shortest cruise. Water makers are expensive and require a surprising amount of care because they work best with regular (every day or two) running and need to be run in clean water only and to be preserved if not used for a week. The membranes have a finite life and can be expensive to replace in out of the way places. Also the high pressures these systems run at and the exposure to salt water means that all parts of the system must be rugged and made of the right materials. On the system we used until last year we had issues with leaks and membrane failure.

Hot water and water making requires a lot of power. Our Village Marine water maker drew 14 amps and made about 24-25 litres of water (6.5 US gallons) an hour. Other water makers require that you run the engine (direct drive) or a generator (AC motor) and will consume similar power. Even the most efficient systems (such as Spectra water makers) consume at least half as much power. Assuming we ran the engine at low speeds solely to make water, we would burn at least a litre of diesel to make 25 litres of water. That works out to about 1.5 litres for 2 short daily showers. To be fair, you should be able to generate a lot more electricity than is needed to make water while running the engine or generator, so let's just count half of this. At $1.25 a litre those showers are still costing about $1 just to make the water. As a bonus, we can use the engine to heat the water too, so we get this for 'free'.

Now we need to look at the capital costs for the water maker, heater, and pressure water system. Let's say $2500 for the water maker, $1000 for the heater, and $500 for the pressure water system. Add on $1000 to pay someone to install or help us install these systems. Assuming we own the boat for 5 years and to keep things simple, depreciate these systems to $0 over this time, that works out at $5000 or $1000/year.

Running costs for the water maker include filters, membranes, and cleaning/preserving chemicals. Let's assume about $500 for these over the 5 years, so we can add on $125/year. With no breakdowns, we are spending nearly $4 per day to buy and maintain these systems. This assumes you live on board for 365 days a year for 5 years - not particularly realistic in our experience, since most of us are away from the boat for months each year. Adding in the $1 a day fuel costs, we are up to about $5/day or over nearly $1500 per year for hot showers. In addition to this we need to consider the time required to run the water maker, maintain and install the systems, and the daily shower stall clean up to keep down the mildew issue.

Contrast this to the simplicity and low cost of a solar heated bucket bath. Admittedly you have to have some way to collect rain water or to bring it from a shore-based supply. In the south seas we have found it simple for about 3/4 of our cruise to collect enough rain water. When we run low, we bring about 20 gallons at a time from shore in containers in our dinghy. This can be a pain, but is at least good exercise and has at times been an adventure and a good way to meet local people.

In cooler climes or on cloudy days, heating a couple of litres of water on the stove top costs pennies and uses equipment found in any galley. The self-draining cockpit is easy to clean out and the humidity escapes immediately. Often we are salty from swimming anyway, so we combine our cockpit balti bath with a post-swim and snorkelling gear wash-off and wash our smalls at the same time. Pretty effective use of a gallon or two of water.

Birds and Butterflies and a few Fish


Chris walks up the hill above Bai Maa - Ladybug is anchored in the bay behind.

Rani takes a local truck for a 'spin'.
We are less than ten miles from Noumea but it's like another world. The Baie Maa is quite a large bay and had thirty five boats anchored in it over the long weekend, almost all locals enjoying their civic holiday. Most of the action remained on the water with people water-skiing, swimming and speeding about in small skiffs. We took to the shore and found a red dirt road skirting the beach. In one direction lies a small cottage community with a nice picnic park and gold sand beach. We took a short walk through the "village" one day and stopped at the locked gate which allows access from the main road to Noumea. Some of the cottages were shipping containers with added porches and awnings, pretty floral gardens completing a cute rustic picture.

Niaouli trees look a bit like small stubby Eucalyptus trees.


This windmill used to pump water to a nearby cottage, now abandoned


Monarch butterflies mating


The monarchs were feeding on the flowers from these plants

Over the next two days we explored the road closest to our boat and hiked through the valley and over scrubby hills to four other beaches to the south. Farmers must be mowing the roads to either keep track of their livestock or go hunting. Otherwise the long grass would be hard to walk through. We startled some sheep a few times and saw deer scat but no deer. Birds whistled and sang in the trees and bright orange monarch butterflies danced in the breeze. A young man we met on one walk pointed out the niaouli trees and crushed a few leaves to let us inhale the menthol-like scent. Niaoulis populate the dry savannah of the west coast of New Caledonia after the land has been cleared by farmers for grazing.

Sheep gallop past us on the coastal road that runs along the bay


Chris explores a vacation property we found on a peninsula near the bay.


Rani's blouse matched the bougainvillea


The beaches were a mix of sand and coral rubble and there were a few shaded grassy spaces which had been used by campers, judging by the ashes of fire pits and heaps of beer cans. It is a pity that those who enjoy the outdoors cannot be bothered to respect the land and remove their trash. We also came across a gorgeous closed-up holiday property comprising two boarded up cottages and a large gazebo with their own private beach. There was a fruit orchard with mango, guava and Kumquat trees. Vivid pink and orange Bougainvillea flowers draped over the cottages and it seemed a shame that no-one was there to enjoy it.


We came back re-charged after 3-4 hours of hiking in this pastoral paradise each day and then enjoyed a cool dip off Ladybug. Evenings were spent chatting and eating with new and old friends on Akimbo, Barefoot and Sir Francis.

The following photos were taken a day later on a trip out to some islands near the edge of Grand Terre's lagoon.


We saw some new fish on the reefs at a nearby island


Lovely colours and patterns


Most of the corals were of the stag horn variety, but we came across a couple of small bommies wth healthy growths of soft  and hard corals


These electric blue fish were common on the two bommies.








Friday, November 1, 2013

Photos from our trip to Amedee Island

The pictures that follow are mostly taken at Ilot Amedee, which has the tallest lighthouse in New Caledonia and one of the tallest in the world at 56 meters. We sailed there for the day from our anchorage off Ile Bailly

View from a mooring off Amedee Island

Our friends on Barefoot arrive under mainsail after striking their jib.

The entrance to Fare (lighthouse) Amedee

The spiral staircase has 247 steps

Panorama from viewing platform - (click for larger image)

Rain spout details above the lens windows

David, Roslyn (off Barefoot), Rani and Chris

They built this tower to last and took care to make it a work of beauty as well

View through the rails to our boats on moorings
And a couple of earlier pics:

Sunset at Noumea

Rani plays catch the pumice ball at Isle Bailly

Pictures from Noumea Tahitian Festival

A few pics from the dance events at the Tahitian festival last weekend:

Dance school dancers performed during the day on Friday and Saturday

The professionals gave evening performances

Rani attended both evening performances where 4 groups gave separate shows.




Wednesday, October 30, 2013

First Cruise in New Caledonia

We sailed to Ile Bailly a few days ago to escape the busy urban existence of Noumea. This small island lies only about 8 miles as the fruit bat flies from Noumea or 12 miles' sail around reefs and across the busy local shipping channels. Ile Bailly is a popular destination for local picnickers and day trippers on the weekend. Barefoot with David and Roselyn on board is also here and we have been enjoying their company, holding pot lucks on our respective boats.

We took advantage of the quiet anchorage and relatively clean water to wipe the collected growth from Ladybug's bottom. The paint we applied in New Zealand has held up well except in a few places where I did not prepare the surface properly and it has flaked off. There was only a small amount of fouling and it was easily removed with a cloth. Our neighbors on Barefoot use a hookah - an underwater breathing device that uses a 12 volt compressor to push air down through special hoses to a regulator. This allows the bottom cleaner to stay underwater continuously, whereas I have to take repeated deep breaths and try to conserve air for as long as possible as I hold on to some part of the boat and scrub with the other hand.

We discovered that our island has a good supply of pumice stone - volcanic rock from nearby underwater eruptions, probably in the Kermadec islands. These light rocks are great for playing toss with and if you throw one in the ocean by accident it usually washes up on the beach in a few minutes. Rani and I got our exercise here with a couple of short hikes to the small hills on the island and a few sessions of catch the pumice rock.

Yesterday we sailed with Barefoot out to Ilot Amedee. This island lies about 12 miles from here and boasts the tallest lighthouse in New Caledonia. The huge iron tower was built in Paris in 1862 and assembled on the island a few years later. It is made of iron plates over an iron truss framework and one can climb the 247 stairs to the viewing platform for a nominal cost. The tower is beautifully shaped, with a curved portion at its base that must have housed the keepers prior to automation. There are also touches that you never see on modern construction - star shaped bolt heads and bronze lion head gargoyles to direct rain run-off away from the viewing platform. The view out over the island an surrounding reefs is spectacular and we spent almost an hour up there chatting with our friends and recovering from the climb up.

Unfortunately the island is near a major pass and receives a large swell that rolls around the small fringing reefs and creates a most uncomfortable anchorage. There are about a dozen mooring balls placed here, but these should not be trusted to hold larger boats as we learned when an Australian sailboat broke free and nearly drifted onto our friends' boat. The mooring line was made of rope and it had chafed through. The guide says that these moorings are for boats less than 10 meters but every boat we saw tied to them was longer than this. One of them was over 15 meters, far larger than what they were designed for, so perhaps the chafe was due to being repeatedly overloaded. We left the anchorage around 3:30p.m. and had a wet and blustery ride in 20 knots winds back to Ile Bailly, arriving just before sunset.

We plan to sail back to Noumea tomorrow to meet up with friends on Chapter 2 who will be leaving soon for New Zealand.

Wednesday, October 23, 2013

The Museum of New Caledonia

We are still anchored in Noumea, enjoying this interesting hybrid European and South Pacific city. There are several museums in the city, some quite convenient to where we are anchored, including the excellent Museum of New Caledonia. This museum displays cultural artifacts from New Caledonia and nearby Pacific islands. Following are some pictures we took of their collection:

House posts in the first gallery. These served as entrance and center posts for the round New Caledonian houses.

Roof pole detail

Entrance post detail

Mask used in mourning ceremony

Mask with human hair

Some areas carved masks with string relief, other more flat

Ceremonial ax head of jade

Lobster trap

Medicine pots were made by the men while women made the cooking pots

Mask from Vanuatu

Pigs tucks were used as money in Vanuatu - the longer the better, The pigs teeth were removed to allow the  tusk to recurve

Bridal head dress from New Guinea

New guinea bowls

Mast displaying people whose deaths were to be avenged by head hunting - Papua New Guinea

Friday, October 18, 2013

Noumea and Some Catch Up Pics

Cathy and Dave from Light Speed

Light Speed came alongside to give us access to their personal wifi hot spot before we left Fiji

The red rocks of New Caledonia indicate mineral and metal deposits

Ore carrier passes close as we sail down the lagoon toward Noumea

Underway in a nice following 20 knot breeze

A cruise ship passes close to our stern in Noumea

Cruise ship departing for an overnight passage

Rani enjoys a birthday glass or wine with a full moon behind her.

And yet another ship passing our anchorage

Rani dances on her birthday 

Cathedral de St. Joseph

Statue of Joan of Arc

Birthday lunch of vegetable couscous for Rani and Coucous Poulet for Chris

The locals carve totems similar in some ways to those from the west coast of Canada