Day 4 - Ships that pass in the night

We were in the vicinity of two low pressure systems for 36 hours, finally coming out of them early this morning. Three reefs in the main and little to no jib for all this time with short lumpy seas making it difficult to move about below without two good hand holds at a time. We heaved to for 6 hours to let the low move further south of us hoping to avoid the higher winds forecast for just below us.

Early this morning the AIS alarm went off, reporting us on a collision course with the bulk carrier "San Francisco" en route from NZ to New Caledonia. I hailed her on VHF and asked her to watch out for us, giving our position, course, and speed. The officer on watch said he would, but the ship continued on her same course and speed and we were required to take evasive action, pulling in the jib and rolling off dead downwind. Even so, we passed well under a mile apart and could have collided had we not altered our course and speed. A half hour later a sister ship was also detected by the AIS on a parallel course to the other carrier. Again we would collide or come extremely close without action, so without bothering to call I turned Ladybug off dead downwind again and we passed about 1/2 a mile apart.

The wind has clocked into the west now and we jibed around 4 am and are running on starboard tack for the first time in 3 days. The seas are still rough amid drizzle and heavy cloud. It is noticeably colder and we are wearing fleeces for the first time. We have both not had much sleep for two days, but hopefully the wind and seas will steady today and we will have a pleasant couple of days as we approach the North Cape of New Zealand.

Our position at 0700 NZ time, 1800 GMT was 29 42 S and 170 55 E with a total 114 NM sailed over 24 hours, 103 NM made good.

Day 3 - Serene to Stormy

Sunday began with a lovely sunrise, blue skies and beautiful beam reaching with 8-10 Knots from the northeast. We even managed to sit in the cockpit for a bucket bath! But, it was not to last. Puffy white clouds dotting the blue sky disappeared and were replaced by a sullen grey cloak and drizzle misted the decks. We watched an old Al Pacino and Robert de Niro movie, "Heat", while the computer could still balance on the dining table and then cooked a large pot of vegetarian chilli.

By mid-afternoon the winds were up to 20 Knots and we had a second reef in the main. The sea had become rougher and Ladybug was bouncing along merrily at 6.5-7 Knots. At 6pm we were in the middle of squally winds gusting over 30 Knots, so we put in the 3rd reef, and furled in most of the jib. The windvane was having issues with the short sharp high swells, so an hour later, we furled in the jib altogether and hoisted the staysail. Chris went out in his undies, a rain jacket and harness as the conditions were very rough with green water washing over the bow constantly.

At night we downloaded another GRIB weather forecast and looked at various scenarios to avoid being stuck in the low. Should we heave-to by pointing NW or East, slow down or run with it? In the end, we decided to run with it as we were going in the right direction. We beared off by a few degrees to avoid being tossed around so much.

At 10 pm, the alarm on the AIS went off. A motor vessel was approaching on a reciprocal course and would pass within 5 miles of us. It was 8 miles away and we could not see it visually. We watched its progress on the small VHF radio screen and were happy to see its lights as it passed us at 5 miles.

At 0320 we heard the staysail flapping. The steering line had broken on the windvane, due to chafing, and the boat had turned into the wind. Using the autopilot temporarily, Chris used the swim ladder hoist line to repair the break and soon had the windvane back in action. Back to the warmth of the cabin!

Our position at 0700 NZ time, 1800 GMT was 27 36 S and 169 35 E with a total 151 NM sailed over 24 hours, 148 NM made good.

Sanyo Eneloops

I like to promote products that we find to be very useful or particularly good value for money. On Ladybug I we used a lot of AA batteries for things like flashlights, clocks, and the SSB receiver. I found that the performance of NiMH batteries was good for a while, but they rapidly became useless because they would not hold a charge for any sort of reasonable storage period. This was a huge issue with the Pentax digital SLR that I had deliberately purchased because it used AA batteries (and was also water sealed). In researching the problem with this camera, I came across a post on a forum about a new technology that had been applied to NiMH rechargeable batteries by Sanyo that apparently cured the problem of rapid discharge during storage.

I bought a set of these Eneloop 'pre-charged' batteries and have only had to recharge them a couple of times in 2+ years of use in the Pentax SLR (which admittedly gets very light use). I recently bought more of these batteries, some from Duracell (apparently rebranded Sanyos) and have found that they work very well in the handheld GPS and in flashlights and head lamps. Highly recommended - we will be recycling our regular NiMH batteries or using them in very low drain devices like clocks.

You can buy these batteries at Canadian Tire or MEC in Canada. Just make sure the package says "pre-charged" or something to that effect. They cost about $15-$20 for 4 AA batteries.

New Caledonia to NZ - Day 2

We ran downwind much of yesterday on a rhumb line to Opua in less than 10 knot NNE winds. The seas gradually quieted and we had a very pleasant sail under blue skies with occasional puffy cumulus clouds. In the early hours of this morning, the wind freshened and gradually swung into the northeast and we are ploughing along, reefed down on a beam reach at 6 knots.



Our position at 1800 GMT (0500 New Caledonia time) on Sunday Dec 1 was 26 00 S 168 42 E. In 24 hours, we ran 138 miles and made good 124 miles toward our destination of Opua.

New Caledonia to NZ - Day 1

We eased into this 850 mile passage with a relaxed late morning departure from the Isle of Pines. A few hours earlier, three other boats had departed, bound also for New Zealand, but with a possible stop at Norfolk Island en route. We hummed and hawed, weighing the pros and cons of leaving or of staying until Sunday when fair winds were more likely and we should have less chance of running into the two lows that were forecast in the area a few days out. Rani baked a carrot cake and I snorkeled to clean the bottom. We pulled the life raft out of storage and began to make up our ditch bag (which we keep handy in case we need to abandon ship).

By 9 am the breeze was picking up (although this later proved to be only a sea breeze induced by the warming land), so we decided to make a start. We left at 10:20 under sail and once clear of the bay, found a large but well spaced southerly swell setting in and between 3 and 5 knots of wind from the SE. We set up the full main and jib on a close haul and sailed along at a very pleasant 3-4 knots until mid afternoon. Around 3pm the wind began to increase and swing into th east and we threw a reef in the main and switched to the wind vane steering. We were soon bowling along reaching more than 7 knots at times as the wind increased and moved into the northeast. This wind, caused by a high moving away to the southeast of us continued all night at 10 to 15 knots. We have been broad reaching, steering a bit south of a direct line to Opua to position us for when the lows arrive in a couple of days.

Our position at 1800 GMT (0500 New Caledonia time) was 24 10 S 167 36 E. In a little under 19 hours, we ran 97 miles and made good 93 miles toward our destination of Opua.

Leaving Noumea

It is getting late in the season and the chance of a Cyclone (hurricane) crossing our path is increasing. So, once we repaired the rig, we checked out of the marina, dealt with a few more pressing emails, and bought fresh produce and various dry goods for our passage back to Opua, New Zealand. We checked out of Noumea, visiting Immigration, Customs (where we obtained a duty free fuel paper), and the Port Captain who granted our exit papers.

We sailed early yesterday, filling Ladybug's diesel tank and spare jerry cans completely, in case we have further issues with our rig or learn of bad weather that we could avoid by motoring. The forecasts are for the current SW winds to veer into the SE and become light for a few days as a low passes us to the south, so we decided to sail for the Isle of Pines and wait for a weather window there.

On the 14 hour passage to the Isle of Pines, the winds varied from SW to S and from 6 to 20 knots (in gusts). Most of the day we sailed in the protection of Grand Terre's lagoon, enjoying smooth seas. It was peaceful enough for Rani to make a batch of chick pea humus and to enjoy a picnic lunch in the cockpit. The sun was shining and the repaired furler and rig were working well. We had an opportunity to test the rig in everything from a dead downwind run, 'wing and wing', to a beat to windward in 15+ knots. I was a little nervous about the new forestay because this is my first repair of this kind, using Norseman fittings. Every time I heard a noise, I would come up on deck and sight up the mast and check the tension of the stays, but there were no problems.

We broad reached down to the Canal Woodin where we calculated there would be a tidal current against us. Sure enough, as we approached we could see standing waves in the passage indicating wind against tide. I steered close in to the port shore, hoping to stay out of the worst or even catch a counter current. The worst current we saw was about 2 or 2.5 knots, and with a fair following wind, funneling through the channel, we ran through to the entrance to Baie de Prony.

We had heard on Tony's Net (a morning HAM radio net) that there were a group of highly experienced New Zealand bound boats heading for Isle of Pines, so Rani suggested that rather than stop at Prony, we press on. It was another 35+ miles to Baie de Kuto on the Isle of Pines, so there was no way we would make it in before sunset. In addition, the waters between us and the island are strewn with reefs. However the charts are very good here and there is a marked passage used by ferries between Noumea and the Isle of Pines, so we decided to risk the passage and entering the harbour in the dark. We would never have tries this in Fiji where reefs are often uncharted, charts are off by many hundreds of meters, and marked channels few.

The rest of the afternoon we close reached into 10-15 knots of southerly wind passing dozens of reefs on either side. We used the tiller pilot for the whole passage, because the wind vane requires more attention in the event of wind shifts. This makes it more tiring to use when working close to shore because the helmsman must always be watching for wind shifts and adjusting the steering vane. However when using the little tiller pilot, designed to work for boats half our weight, we have to be careful to trim the sails so that it will not be overloaded by too much helm force. We kept at least one reef in the main and at times tucked in a second and furled part of the jib to do this. We also made much use of the main traveller to de-power the main and reduce the tendency of the boat to round up into the wind.

The entry into Kuto was straightforward. There are flashing lights marking a safe approach transit line and the bay shoals up gradually. Using a bright headlamp, I guided Rani to a safe spot to anchor just outside a row of anchored yachts. We will stay here until we have good weather for the passage. Last night's GRIB weather forecast shows that Sunday (three days from now) may be a good departure day.

Forestay and Furler Fixed

Two days ago, I visited Papillon with the bits and pieces of the Profurl furler. Erik had assembled the necessary tools - circlip pliers, regular needlenose pliers, a ball peen hammer,  and a wooden plug usually used for plugging broken through hulls in emergencies. Two hours later, with the use of these tools, a brief interlude to modify a circlip plier with a dremel grinding wheel, and some colourful language, Erik had the unit re-assembled and greased up. Erik grew up on a farm and can fix pretty well anything. He loves a challenge and enjoys helping out other cruisers with their problems. I think his generosity sometimes gets him in hot water on his own boat where there are plenty of projects awaiting his attention!

Up the mast removing the damaged furler and stay.

The mast has slight ripples in the tapered section. I am currently trying to find out if these have always been there (apparently the welding of tapers in aluminum masts can cause slight regular ripples) or if this occurred when the forestay broke. 

I returned to Ladybug in her slip at the marina and with some neighbor's help we lifted the furler off the rails and place it on the main dock. Rani and I removed the mainsail and I took the furler apart into sections, by undoing a series of little grub screws with an Alan key. The sections came apart effortlessly, being joined by well anodized joiners and the screws being bedded in Loctite. One thing I will say for Profurl furlers is that the are fairly easy to work on and fix using non-proprietary parts (the bearings are standard steel ball races and the seals nitrile lip seals with non-stainless springs). Next we laid the old forestay and broken swage alongside the new 7mm wire and Norselock fittings. Some of the foil sections were slightly bent from the loads imposed when the forestay failed while beatings. These were easy to straighten out using gentle pressure with part of the section placed under a dock cleat.

Assembling the Norseman eye fitting. This will attach to the masthead. 

We taped the forestay wires together to make transferring the measurement more accurate. I added an inch extra so that if and when we replace the furler with a new one, we can simply cut off one of the end fittings and re-use the new wire. There is enough slack in the tensioning turn buckle to allow this.

Attaching extra halyards to lift the repaired furler foil and forestay into place

The next day I woke early, re-assembled the furler foil over the new forestay wire by sliding each section on with the bearing unit/joiner  at the end I first inserted. The Profurl foil has plastic bearing sleeves inside each section joiner. This makes it impossible to slide a new wire through a complete foil unless one has the foresight to use the old stay to feed a messenger line, hence the need to disassemble the foil. The re-assembly went smoothly and I used Loctite to refasten the little screws that hold everything together.

Putting on the Norseman end fittings proved to be very simple. You un-lay the outer wire strands for a few centimeters, insert a tapered hollow cone over the core wires to a precise distance from the end and then re-lay the outer wires evenly around the cone, making a bulge in the wire. Then, if you are me, you undo all this because you forgot to put the body of the Norseman fitting on the wire first (I made this same mistake at both ends!). Once this is done, you screw the head onto the fitting and tighten it with two wrenches. You take it all apart to make sure the wire strands are evenly space and re-assemble with a sealant to keep out water.

The sky was quite spectacular yesterday.

Up the mast for the last time, fitting the Windex wind indicator.

We asked our Polish neighbor, Voytek, to help us raise the foil and with three halyards and two control lines, we soon had the foil raised to the masthead. The rest was relatively easy, requiring two trips up the mast to fasten off the forestay and set up the halyard anti-wrap and our new wind indicator. I slid the furler drum over the bottom and tensioned the forestay by feel because we have no gauge.

Everything back together!

We will head out to anchor today and await a good weather window for New Zealand. It looks like we may be another week here because there are low pressure systems and troughs moving across south of us for much of this week.

Roller Furler Progress

Earlier this week I left the damaged roller furler assembly at a machine shop in the industrial are of Ducos, about a half hour bus ride out of central Noumea. After a lengthy conversation in my stilted French, the manager told me to come back on Friday afternoon to pick it up and said he would email me if there was a problem. Hearing nothing I made the trip out to Ducos again yesterday with my friend Erik off Papillon. Eric was interested in visiting the machine shop to see if they could do some aluminum welding in support of a repair to better support his prop shaft.

When we arrived at the shop, the man I talked to brought out the roller furler in much the same state as it was and explained that he could not disassemble it because the drum was forced to one side in the barrel. Erik speaks fluent French and helped translate the bad news. I felt terribly deflated by this. If the assembly was not repairable, we could end up in New Caledonia for the cyclone season or at the very least miss Rani's flight home from Auckland. I thanked the manager for trying and offered to pay for their time, but he declined payment since he could not fix the problem.

Next, we headed off down the hill to visit an aluminum welder that he had suggested for Eric's job. On the way back from this visit, Eric suggested we look into another machine shop on the off chance they could help with the furler. To my surprise, the men in the shop had some knowledge of Profurl furlers and were able to remove the circlip that retains the bearings. They then used a large press to push out the drum and took off the old bearing and additional clips.

We walked for another couple of hours in the hot sun around Ducos, eventually buying a set of very overpriced seals and a bearing race for the furler rebuild job as well as some material for Eric to mock up the aluminum plates he would need for his job.

At least we are making progress. Today we go into the marina to take apart the furler foil and make up the new forestay. Despite being very busy arranging his family's stay in New Caledonia and work in Australia, Erik has offered to help me rebuild the furler. This is a job that requires a vice and some very heavy circlip pliers, neither of which I have on Ladybug. We are fortunate to have the help of such capable and generous friends.

Fromage and Fruit

We have been eating cheese twice a day in Noumea. Why? Because it is quite delicious - creamy Brie, earthy blues and spicy peppercorn Rondele - all served with fresh crusty baguettes - mmmmm! The cost is reasonable - about $3.50 for 250gm of Brie or Camembert and $1 for a baguette  Flavourful canned  Greek black olives imported from Morocco make a favourite accompaniment. You can see the results on my Buddha belly!

On the other hand, the price of fruit and vegetables makes me wince - apples, oranges and bananas cost around 50-60 cents each, aubergine, carrots, courgettes and onions all cost around $4/kg, a small head of cauliflower can set you back $6 and green peppers around $6/kg. Oh, how I miss those heaps of vegetables for $1-2 in Fiji markets. Being a vegetarian is tough in New Caledonia!

Walking with Wild Horses

Horses graze near the bay in which we are anchored

Chris tries to tempt them with a feed of oats

Our friends Roz and Holger had written that there were good walks on Ile Ducos in Baie St. Vincent, about thirty five miles north of Noumea. We anchored in Baie des Mustiques on a windy afternoon between two local yachts and launched our dinghy to explore the nearby beach where our closest neighbours' inflatable was already parked. The hills were parched, with crisp dry grass rustling in the breeze. A couple of houses hid under a cluster of trees a short distance in both directions along the beach and a wire fence, leading up from the low tide line, divided the land. There was a dusty track just above us, so we walked along it toward the nearest house/ranch. An old rusting Dodge truck with surprisingly shiny chrome lights and wipers lay in our path. Low level thorn bushes that reminded us of the Torote Blanco in Mexico's Baja scratched a few etchings on our exposed legs here and there. I was happy to be wearing my hiking boots, but should have worn trousers.

Fossil clam shells on the beach

What looks like a fossil crab

The path was easy to walk, well-trodden by horses as evidenced by their drying droppings, and we reached the stand of niaoulli trees behind the house quite quickly. Not wishing to disturb anyone, we skirted the stand and came out in a flat valley where many trails criss-crossed the grassland. We headed inland and then up a hill onto a ridge. The wind was pleasantly refreshing on the top and we had superb views of the passage we had sailed that morning and saw many possibilities of walking across the island. Small groups of horses,half a dozen to a dozen, grazed on just about every hill on the island. We descended to a forest on the north side of the island where I spied a deer that leapt away at our approach. As the day was late, we returned to
Ladybug for supper and decided on an early start the next morning.

Ile Ducos Panorama

We rowed ashore around 8am when the tide was out and struck out along the beach in the opposite direction to our previous hike. We did not see any signs of life as we walked past a house near the barbed wire fence. However, a small kids' slide on the beach and a flower garden spoke of recent occupation, maybe ranchers visiting from the mainland. The sandy beach turned into a rocky beach with sharp volcanic terraces. We continued along the shore and at one place found fossilized shells in soft sandstone rocks. The fossils were all small clam or scallop shells, except one which appeared to be a crab, with distinct claws and round body.

Horses run from us even though we are close to a km away

A little while later we climbed up the bank and came close to a clan of horses. We had brought along some oats and tried to entice them to come closer. They were very shy and skittish and kept their distance, eyeing us wearily. A few had beautiful shiny brown coats but most looked half-starved with their skin stretched taut over the ribs. A very young foal stood close to its mother and peered at us curiously. I was a little anxious myself while trying to tempt them with an open dish of oats. They were edging away from us but stopped to stare. Then Chris took the oats and crouched down in the grass while I took a few steps back towards the beach. One brave mare slowly approached Chris but turned away as if she thought the better of it. I guess they are not used to people offering them food. So we continued our way up the hills and left them in peace.

Rani hikes into a forest where she saw a deer

We switch-backed up one tall hill and saw a settlement on the lagoon side of the island. There was a palm plantation around the 4 or 5 houses but it was too far away for much detail. The white-capping bay would not be great for fishing boats other than landing small skiffs on the beach. Ladybug was anchored on the opposite, protected side of the island.

The dry  plains here are a stark contrast to the lush jungles of Fiji

It was tempting to continue walking and we hiked along a long undulating ridge to another headland where a herd of goats grazed. Despite trying to approach them from a blind side, they must have seen us from afar and scampered down before we reached their pasture. Piles of manure attested to their preferred hangout and who could blame them? They had a magnificent view all around - the islands to the south, the lagoon to the west, the mainland to the east and their own island laying at their feet. The horses outnumbered the goats (we could count a couple of hundred within our sight) and we wondered where they all went for water.

More horses in motion

After a light picnic lunch at "goat point" we reluctantly began our circuitous tramp home. We had to sail out early the next day to Noumea to check on some overdue important emails. Little did we know of the drama we would endure on that passage (described in a previous blog post)!