Suwarrow Pictures

We are finally getting around to posting some pictures from our delightful stay at Suwarrow.  More information can be found in earlier posts. The pictures below are from pot-lucks, a bird-watching trip, and swimming with mantas.

Anchorage at Suwarrow - Anchorage Island

Harry and Ants (Anthony) at the Caretaker's Lodge

Ants and Harry cook in a separate shelter. Because they had no propane , they were using a cement oven and fires for cooking. The Cook Island authorities messed up their food delivery, leaving them without half of their groceries, so the yachties tried to help out with potlucks and invitations for meals on board.

Wine tasting on the beach - Chris at the bar with John and Pat of  s/v The Rose

Typical pot-luck on the beach

Great singing and strumming from Tom of s/v Barraka and friends

Harry was a professional musician in New Zealand. He played us traditional cook island melodies as well as more recent tunes.

Both Ants and Harry gave the cruisers a talk on their culture and history.

Statue of Tom Neal who lived on Suwarrow alone for many years.

Rainbow over Barraka

Damawhil - The mega-yacht that we visited. Note the scale with the very small crew-member on the foredeck.

Nesting booby

We think this is a tropic bird chick

Frigate bird colony

Baby Frigate and what we think is a mother bird

Immature Frigate Bird

Manta approaching cleaning station (photo courtesy s/v Victory)

Rani diving down to get a closer look (photo courtesy of Jan Bart s/v Victory)

"If only I could be as graceful"- Rani

Whangerei

Ladybug and I made it into McCleods Bay near Whangerei and we are now moored to a mooring that Rob and Jo, cruising friends from 'Blue Moon' whom we met way back in 2008 in Mexico, have let us use. Jo is a Canadian and works here as a personal trainer and Yoga teacher, while Rob, a New Zealander, is running the construction project for their new home and fitness studio/retreat. They are both in the thick of the building process and seem a little frazzled from dealing with the paperwork as well as all the subcontractors.

The trip from Wooley's Bay where I ended up the night before (just shy of Tutukaka) was done in two lovely tacks. The first tack was for three hours way offshore to the 'Poor Knights' islands (a world class diving destination, I am told). The second brought me all the way in to Bream Head at the mouth of Whangerei Bay. The winds died down as I reached the head of the bay but I was just able to catch the end of the flood and then slack tide and tack up the estuary nearly into McCleods Bay.

McCleod's Bay has an interesting history for me, being a Nova Scotian. The settlers here were Nova Scotians - Scotts from Cape Breton, who emigrated to Australia and then New Zealand before finding a good place to re-settle. I must say I do not blame them for leaving Nova Scotia as you can grow darn tasty grapefruit and oranges here, not to mention raise cattle and sheep without dealing with harsh winters and rocky soil.

I have started buying camping equipment and researching hikes in preparation for Rani's return. The local area has half a dozen coastal, mountain, river, and ridge walks that I will try in the next few weeks. I will also work on Ladybug's deck leaks and arrange to have the anchor chain regalvanized, although I hear that I may have to wait until after Christmas for the latter project.

Whangamumu and Tutukaka

Ladybug departed Opua yesterday after a brief stop to re-water at the fuel dock. As we left, 'Picara' with Mike and Marnie on board pulled in to the quarantine wharf. I believe 'Picara' is the last of our friends in the 'third fleet' to arrive safely in New Zealand from Tonga. 'Legacy', 'Beau Soleil', and 'Gato Go' had come in a day or two earlier. It was good to see them and say hello, though only for a minute, as no one is allowed on the quarantine dock except new arrivals from offshore.

The heavy winds had departed when the low moved off to the southeast and only a few dark clouds remained to remind me of the rather unpleasant few days we had just gone through. Ladybug motored down the Veronica Channel on the last of the ebb and we hoisted sail off Russell, where a very light westerly wind was blowing onshore. As we sailed through the Bay of Islands, the wind remained light and shifty, making progress slow. But I did not mind in the least.

The scenery in the Bay of Islands is stunning - picture some of the best hill walking in England combined with ocean views, sandy beaches, and precipitous drop-offs. I am really looking forward to exploring this area with Rani. Because much of it is in nature reserves, it is both protected and accessible. Hiking trails ring many islands and there are ridge walks out to the points.

An ex-America's cup boat, now under day charter, motored out of Opua behind us. She put up her massive sails and was fast gaining on us when the wind died. She got tired of the slow progress and motored past. We came up next on a robust steel ketch, painted Ladybug-red, jigging along under jib and mizzen. Flying more sail, we were soon past her and entering Albert Channel, bound for Cape Brett. I was sorely tempted to stop for a day in one of the many sheltered coves amongst these islands, but Whangerei beckoned and I hoped to catch the last day of a sale on camping gear in town on Tuesday.

The open ocean swell sets into the mouth of Albert channel and bounces around, after reflecting off cliffs, blow holes, and sea caves. We made slow progress until the wind shifted into the north and allowed us to harden in the sheets and beat directly for the cape. I decided to pass close by Cape Brett, inside of two off-lying islands. The lighthouse and buildings at the cape hang precariously to the sides of a very steep hill. The light itself has a short tower with a large light perched on top. It was this welcoming beacon we had watched for hours during the night of our approach to New Zealand.

The wind died out past the cape and after bouncing around for an hour, I decided to call it a day and motored into Whangamumu harbour. This is a lovely almost landlocked harbour with the ruins of a 1930's whaling station. The hills are full of bird song and inviting paths criss-cross open fields. I had been told this is a popular place with local cruisers, but it must still be early in the season, for there were only a couple of boats here when I dropped the hook.

When the wind re-appears, I plan to head south another 25 or 30 miles to the delightfully named Tutukaka harbour, which has a marina and good anchorages, about half way to Whangerei harbour.

Things that go bump

I ordered new life lines a few days ago from Cater Marine here in Opua. Their quote was quite reasonable and quite a bit lower than the competition. The old life lines were probably installed in the late 1990's and two had already broken in the last few years - one at the swage and the other right in the middle. The new life lines are uncoated stainless steel as is the recommended approach these days (easier to inspect and does not trap moisture). I had them use the more flexible 7 X 19 wire rope, which I hope will be more forgiving of flexing and last longer than the more rigid and slightly stronger 1 X 19 wire. One slight correction is needed to the life line that replaced the one that broke. I did not take in the pieces, but assumed that it would be the same as the one on the other side. However, the sides are a bit different in length, so I need them to shorten this one by a couple of inches. The total cost with a couple of new turnbuckles and 18 swages will actually end up less than what I paid to have the same job done in Canada in 2007 on the smaller Cal 29 - around 400 Canadian dollars. Note that this does not include the two gates and one short lifeline I had done in Canada last year, but the costs are not all that different.

The new solar panel mounts are made of stainless tube with clamp on fittings to fasten them to the stanchions and pushpit (tubing at the stern of the boat). Using fittings saved on the labour to cut and weld the bars on the boat, which was estimated at between $300 and $600.

We had some excitement this afternoon when the large catamaran, 'Gato Go' swung into Ladybug and bumped a few times along our bow today while her owners were on shore. I was down below when I heard the bumping and ran to the foredeck where I fended her off until she slipped away and drifted over towards another boat. We are anchored at the confluence of two tidal rivers, which occasionally produces strange gyrations at slack tide. 'Gatto Go' had arrived here yesterday and had swung a bit close during the previous afternoon before but Craig had pulled in some chain and thought things would be ok.

To make matters more interesting, our other near neighbour, 'Alouette', who had also anchored near us the day before, swung within 10 feet of us on the other side. I put out a call for the owners of the two boats on the VHF and another cruiser off Papillon motored over to help fend off 'Alouette'. Eventually Craig and Bruce showed up and were kind enough to move 'Gatto Go' up the river a ways. Alouette's owners showed up much later and they agreed to shorten scope. Everyone was very nice about this and there is no visible damage from the bump-bump.

Opua and Whangerei

Ladybug is still at anchor in Opua off the marina. Rani flew home to the UK a couple of days ago and is currently in Dubai doing some sight-seeing on route. I guess she did not get her fill of travelling in the last 8 months!

I am working on  much needed boat projects including replacing the life lines (one of which broke on a recent passage) and upgrading our solar panel installation from lashed on broom handles to stainless steel tubing. There are a dozen smaller projects as well as the unpleasant task of re-bedding our leaking genoa track, which requires much dismantling below decks to reach all bolts that go through the deck.

I plan to sail down to Whangerei where our friends Jo and Rob off 'Blue Moon' are building a health retreat. They have offered me the use of a mooring beside their boat in McCleod Bay. I will visit with them and do work in the boat there before heading out to the islands nearer to Christmas.

Pictures from Vava'u

Some pictures from our stay in the delightful island group of Vava'u, Tonga. We stayed in a dozen anchorages throughout these islands for about 7 weeks.

Peaceful anchorage off Nuku island

Vines in the forest. We found a great walk across Vaka 'eitu island to a private surf-washed beach.

Blue Linckia Sea Star on the reef at Euakafa island

Beach walk at Euakafa island

Village walk - Ofu island

Little girls threading Plumeria flowers to make sweet scented leis at Ofu Island

A co-operative group weaving pandanus mats at Ofu Island

Children on the main road on Ofu island.  

Gathering fallen mangoes while hiking on Ofu

Typical fishing boat - Ofu island

On the veranda at the Aquarium restaurant in Neiafu, celebrating Rani's 50th

Brad and Gloria off 'Kindred Spirit' helped us celebrate Rani's 50th in Neiafu

Chris, Marni, and Mike (from 'Picara') watch the surf between Kenutu and Lolo islands

Sea weed at Kenutu island

Shells at Kenutu island

Corals at Lolo island

Tree house on Kenutu

View from the south end of Kenutu

Karen from 'Chapter 2' ready to enter Swallow's Cave

Swallow's Cave with genuine Tongan graffiti (some dating to the 19th century)

Chris, Rani, andd Mike from 'Chapter 2' in  Swallow's Cave - thanks to 'Chapter 2' for the pictures of Swallow's Cave.

Pictures from Niuatoputapu

These photos were taken on Niuatoputapu, the most northern of Tonga's islands:

Chris walking in the old village of Falehau with Doug off 'Long Shot II' and Brad and Linda from 'Lark' . Note the pig and horse grazing on the lawns. If you want to keep livestock away, you fence them out, not in...

Horse, 'Long Shot II', and the volcanic cone of Tafahi

Pigs outnumbered the horses and probably humans as well.

Graves were decorated with piles of crushed corals and beautiful hand-sewn quilts

Health nurse, Monica, and her sister. We dunked Monica when she boarded our tender for the return trip to shore.

Pigs are ubiquitous.

Chris seems excited by the fresh baked bread we found in the main village. It was sold from a tiny house that was incredibly hard to find.

Picnic lunch on the beach with the good folks from'Long Shot II' - Sue, Saylor,  Riley, and Charlie (behind).

Hiking to Tafahi - actually across the mouth of a channel as Tafahi is 5 miles away across deep water.

Check out the amazing shell we found.

Woman and child gather up pandanus leaves that had been soaking on the tidal flats. 

Mormon elders Jenkins and Muffe

Kids in Falehau jump for Rani

Cruiser enjoy a traditional dinner hosted by Sia and Nico.

Sia prepares a small pig - the head has already been given to one of the Tongan guests

Traditional outrigger dug-out canoe

Drying kava roots - the drug of choice for any occasion of importance. It is grown on the sides of the nearby volcanic island and then dried and pounded into a powder prior to soaking it to make kava.

Mormon elders hanging out with a friend. The local thatched buildings are almost all gone after the last tsunami went through these islands.

We were fortunate to witness an inter-village rugby tournament, won by 'our' village of Falehau

The Tongans are very religious, beginning each match with prayers.

Chris playing his own verison of rugby with local kids

Chris's team

New village of Falehau located uphill and away from Tsunami prone low lands.

Kids in the elementary school show us their Spam tin ukes.

Weaving pandanus mats. This is done in groups and can take several days to complete a large mat between several women. Notice the empty can of spam that was lunch!