Friday, November 30, 2012

Pictures from Vava'u

Some pictures from our stay in the delightful island group of Vava'u, Tonga. We stayed in a dozen anchorages throughout these islands for about 7 weeks.

Peaceful anchorage off Nuku island

Vines in the forest. We found a great walk across Vaka 'eitu island to a private surf-washed beach.

Blue Linckia Sea Star on the reef at Euakafa island

Beach walk at Euakafa island

Village walk - Ofu island

Little girls threading Plumeria flowers to make sweet scented leis at Ofu Island

A co-operative group weaving pandanus mats at Ofu Island

Children on the main road on Ofu island.  

Gathering fallen mangoes while hiking on Ofu

Typical fishing boat - Ofu island

On the veranda at the Aquarium restaurant in Neiafu, celebrating Rani's 50th

Brad and Gloria off 'Kindred Spirit' helped us celebrate Rani's 50th in Neiafu

Chris, Marni, and Mike (from 'Picara') watch the surf between Kenutu and Lolo islands

Sea weed at Kenutu island

Shells at Kenutu island

Corals at Lolo island

Tree house on Kenutu

View from the south end of Kenutu

Karen from 'Chapter 2' ready to enter Swallow's Cave

Swallow's Cave with genuine Tongan graffiti (some dating to the 19th century)

Chris, Rani, andd Mike from 'Chapter 2' in  Swallow's Cave - thanks to 'Chapter 2' for the pictures of Swallow's Cave.


Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Pictures from Niuatoputapu

These photos were taken on Niuatoputapu, the most northern of Tonga's islands:

Chris walking in the old village of Falehau with Doug off 'Long Shot II' and Brad and Linda from 'Lark' . Note the pig and horse grazing on the lawns. If you want to keep livestock away, you fence them out, not in...

Horse, 'Long Shot II', and the volcanic cone of Tafahi

Pigs outnumbered the horses and probably humans as well.

Graves were decorated with piles of crushed corals and beautiful hand-sewn quilts

Health nurse, Monica, and her sister. We dunked Monica when she boarded our tender for the return trip to shore.

Pigs are ubiquitous.

Chris seems excited by the fresh baked bread we found in the main village. It was sold from a tiny house that was incredibly hard to find.

Picnic lunch on the beach with the good folks from'Long Shot II' - Sue, Saylor,  Riley, and Charlie (behind).

Hiking to Tafahi - actually across the mouth of a channel as Tafahi is 5 miles away across deep water.

Check out the amazing shell we found.

Woman and child gather up pandanus leaves that had been soaking on the tidal flats. 

Mormon elders Jenkins and Muffe

Kids in Falehau jump for Rani

Cruiser enjoy a traditional dinner hosted by Sia and Nico.

Sia prepares a small pig - the head has already been given to one of the Tongan guests

Traditional outrigger dug-out canoe

Drying kava roots - the drug of choice for any occasion of importance. It is grown on the sides of the nearby volcanic island and then dried and pounded into a powder prior to soaking it to make kava.

Mormon elders hanging out with a friend. The local thatched buildings are almost all gone after the last tsunami went through these islands.

We were fortunate to witness an inter-village rugby tournament, won by 'our' village of Falehau

The Tongans are very religious, beginning each match with prayers.

Chris playing his own verison of rugby with local kids

Chris's team

New village of Falehau located uphill and away from Tsunami prone low lands.

Kids in the elementary school show us their Spam tin ukes.

Weaving pandanus mats. This is done in groups and can take several days to complete a large mat between several women. Notice the empty can of spam that was lunch!

Pictures from the reefs

We are finally back within range of an internet connection - the first one since Samoa that will allow us to post some pictures from Tonga and before. These pictures were provided by our friends on 'Gato Go' and date from Fakarava and on to a pic from 'Legacy' which was taken at the 'Coral Wonder' in Vava'u

Sharks at Fakarava South (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')

Sharks at Fakarava South (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')

I think this is called a pillow star - Photo courtesy of Rich off 'S/V Legacy'

Clam in coral - (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')


The 'Aquarium' at Fakarava South (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')

Giant Napoleon Wrasse (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')

Needle Fish (photo courtesy Craig and Bruce of  'S/V Gato Go')



Monday, November 26, 2012

Venus Rising - Day 15

I am on watch as we coast down to the entrance to the Bay of Islands. It is 0430, Venus is rising to port and the lighthouses wink at me to starboard. I think we timed it just right :) We should see the land clearly at sunrise.

We turned on the engine for 5 hours yesterday as the wind lay down completely and the sea became glossy calm. Ladybug had 43 miles to run but as Trish on "Gulf Harbour Radio" likes to put it, we could see the barn door. It seemed a shame after all those quiet days and the lovely sailing breeze we had enjoyed during the last few days.

Maybe God was listening to my thoughts because at 2130 a light WSW breeze began to rustle the mainsail. We switched off the engine and were soon tacking up towards the north cape. It was slow going with a knot or more of current against us but the seas were almost flat.

We sailed all night, using the radar and frequent visual scans of the horizon to avoid running into any fishing boats or cargo ships. The stars and partial moon were guiding our way. I could see the legendary Maori "sail of Tainui", the Southern Cross and the Magellan nebulae quite clearly. Despite the chilly temperature in the cockpit I sat out there for a long time enjoying this last night of our cruise.

At sunrise we were almost at the entrance to the Bay of Islands and Cape Wiwiki glowed like a welcome beacon. Lots of little birds were flying around, fishing and swimming close to Ladybug. A ketch flying its full set of sails was tacking up from Cape Brett and another sailboat was motor-sailing from the east. The spinner dolphins did not show up despite my messages.

Chris woke up to enjoy the scenery unfolding as another day was born. It was wonderful to see the grassy hillsides and trees standing to attention on top of one cliff. We could smell the sweetness of the land! We had arrived!

Sadly, the wind deserted us shortly thereafter. We enjoyed a hot tea, called NZ Maritime Radio to revise our ETA and motored the remaining 12 miles into Opua. There were dozens of boats ranging from jetskis to 50 footers fishing in the bay, so we had to weave our way carefully in the narrow parts of the channel.

As we approached the quarantine dock, a couple of women shouted and waved madly from the marina club house. They were our friends Anne from "Charisma" and Deb from "Buena Vista", calling "Welcome to New Zealand!". That cry was echoed many times as other people saw us go by. What a wonderful feeling! We had truly made it to New Zealand!

Sunday, November 25, 2012

Made it to Opua

We have arrived and are anchored in the bay at Opua on the north island of New Zealand. More to follow...

Friday, November 23, 2012

Day 14 - Air planes and Dried Fruit

We are now about 70 miles out of the Bay of Islands, beating into a freshening SSE breeze with a bouncy heeled over motion that makes typing somewhat difficult. Yesterday we had a very pleasant day of easterly winds on our beam. The sun came out after more than 24 hours of cloudy drizzly conditions and our batteries are once more topped up. I can now see that solar energy is not a panacea if you live in this part of the world, although it has worked superbly during our cruises in Mexico and the tropics.

Yesterday we nearly jumped out of our skins when a New Zealand air force Orion zoomed by to get a close look at us. They were down to around one thousand feet - close enough to read our boat name! This is a 4 engined propeller plane, used for coastal surveillance and I would guess they were on fisheries patrol as well as on the look out for approaching yachts. They called us and another nearby yacht on VHF Channel 16 to check our ETA into Opua. You have to email a pre-check-in document to NZ customs 48 hours in advance and then check in via radio 24 hours out with your revised ETA. These guys take border protection seriously!

Apart from the excitement of our aerial visitor, we have been busy eating our fresh produce, dried fruit, and other items that will be confiscated in New Zealand. We are doing quite well, but Rani is still worried they will take away our lentils, beans, and rice - staples in her diet. If you know Rani, you will know how much she hates to waste anything! Because we will arrive early on Sunday morning and will probably not be inspected until Monday, we still have two days to eat 7 potatoes, 4 onions, 3 kilos of rice, a kilo of raisins, and 4 or 5 kilos of assorted legumes. Rani has been threatening to make a giant rice pudding, but our tiny fridge cannot hold much more.

It has been so calm on this passage that we have been able to watch a movie each day. The Coen brothers are becoming favorites on Ladybug - we have watched two of their films in the last few days - "Bad Santa" and "A Serious Man". I love their dark, intelligent humour, even if the profanity and violence can be a bit much.

Our position at 07:45 on Saturday Nov 24 was 34 14 S 175 07 E. We made 110 miles in the last 24 hours.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

Day 13 - Things that Break

Yesterday was a day of drizzle and overcast skies. We made about 120 miles in easterly winds, with the main reefed to allow our wind vane to steer more easily.

Rani baked a parrot pie for supper - no she has not given up her vegetarianism - parrot pie is made with eggs, onions, and flour. This turns out sort of like a crustless quiche and always reminds us of our friends on Blue Moon who introduced us to this delicacy on a hike in Mexico. Yummy with Mexican salsa and the highlight of a drizzly, chilly day.

I thought I would mention a few things that we and other boats have had break down on us on this passage. Jimmy Cornell, in his cruising survey, does a more complete job of this, but maybe this will help people who are preparing for an ocean passage. There are two states that seem to cause the most damage to boats - calm or light winds in rolly seas, and heavy winds, particularly squalls. We have had more of the former on this passage, but the rolling around and slatting that a boat goes through out here can cause a surprising amount of damage.

Here is my list based on about 40 boats on passage:

Broken sail slugs and batten cars - These and the webbing that ties the sails to the slugs wear quickly as the sails slap back and forth. Even a few days of this can destroy hardware and chafe right through webbing. Suggest you bring spares. One boat was forced to motor when their batten car broke at the top the mainsail, while another had a repair kit on board and carried on sailing. We had one slug break. This was our fault because we have reefed our mainsail while running in the past, which wears through the plastic sail track slugs in short order due to side loads. We now round up to reef or un-reef and will replace our plastic slugs with metal ones in NZ.

Head sail clew ring - one boat had this pull right out, presumably in a squall 'though I did not hear the details. They admitted that the clew ring webbing was tired. Suggest you restitch or renew this area if in doubt.

Head sail UV strip failure - not sure if the boat that suffered this had this happen in a squall. Apparently the sail cloth under the UV canvas was damaged and failed as well, so it was not just stitching (which is usually the first thing to go).

Staysail and jib failures - did not hear the details, but a few boats reported damage to their fore-sails in the heavier winds that the earlier fleet experienced a few weeks ago.

Auto-pilot - at least one boat had a failure of their autopilot. Not repairable on passage.

Pactor modem - we rely on this for email communications and weather forecasts. Two boats reported failures and we relayed weather to one of these boats that was in the area of a cyclone.

Wind vane steering - We heard of three boats who had wind vane steering failures. Two were repairable on passage. Bring spares for your wind vane (Monitor provides a complete rebuild kit when you buy their wind vane).

Solar panels. One boat had a panel destroyed in heavy weather. They suggested that we lash our panels down before we get into bad conditions. They went through 50+ knots of wind and seas of more than 7 meters.

Engine transfer plate - I think I have this term correct. The bit that transfers power from the engine to the transmission failed. This meant that the boat could neither motor nor re-charge its batteries. Not sure how one could prevent this. Conditions were so benign that another boat actually towed the disabled boat for a couple of days until the wind filled in!

Engine impeller followed by muffler melt-down. An old impeller (3 years) came apart and the hot exhaust melted the plastic muffler before the engine overheat alarm went off. Replace old impellers before your trip..

Our position at 7:45 this morning was 32 42 S 176 10 E. We are sailing now under sunny skies in a light NE breeze and are 160 miles out of Opua.