Arrived in Foggy California

We did it! After an abortive attempt to escape Coos Bay when the bar was closed to all vessels under 36 feet, we finally sailed out around supper time on Sept 10. The winds were good until about 3am when everything went quiet and we took down the sails. The swell made for a sleepless night with everything banging around down below.

Around 6am, a light wind came up from the South (completely different from the forecast) and we sailed slowly toward Crescent City. Around 3pm it became obvious we would not reach California that day, so we turned on the motor and headed into Brookings, Oregon. The fog closed in and we entered the very narrow Chetco River entrance using the GPS and waypoints from our cruising guide. Rani called the coast guard to check out the bar conditions and they asked us for our customs clearance info (both coast guard and customs are units of homeland security). The coast guard were waiting to greet us on the pier and gave us info on Brookings after checking our clearance papers.

The next morning held a mystery. I had left my rather elderly 'Gilligan' hat behind in Coos Bay (which made Rani openly happy). However the hat came back, appearing in our cockpit overnight, wrapped in a safeway plastic bag. We walked around the marina but failed to uncover anyone we knew from Coos Bay who might have dropped it off. We can only think that Faye and Ken off 'R Genesis' must have left early in the morning, dropping it off on their way out???

Around noon we sailed for Crescent City finding the same light wind on our nose. We beat into it for about 6 hours, sailing through the fog and tacking between Point St George and the Reef about a mile offshore. Thick fog and a current running against us made this a memorable experience! We came into Crescent Bay at dusk, again using waypoints and GPS due to the fog. I chose to anchor out off the boat basin breakwater ostensibly to save some $$ but actually to make it harder for Rani to 'do a runner' (as she puts it).

Here are some pics from the last couple of weeks:



Kite surfer at Bullards Beach near Bandon



First Order French Fresnel lens at lighthouse at Umpqua River - these lenses are rare with about a dozen in private collections around the world. Apparently one sold at auction recently for over 1 million dollars.



Our friend Faye Husch hiking the dunes north of Coos Bay. Note the dune buggy tracks behind us.



Rani hiking high in the dunes. She regretted turning down an offer to ride down the dunes on a motorbike!



Our friend Ken Husch in Bandon. We spent a lot of time enjoying Ken and Faye's company while on Coos Bay and spent a day in the rental car together, touring the local coast.



Lighthouse and bird near Bandon.

Still in Coos Bay

Well - the gales in northern California have persisted now for over a week and we are still waiting for a weather window. The problem is not just wind, but the closely spaced very steep seas that would make the next leg of the trip uncomfortable.

We rented a car for a few days and did some sightseeing to local dunes where you can rent buggies and blast around (we hiked, taking care to avoid being run down!). We also visited some of the stunning beaches that we saw in the distance on the way down as well as a lighthouse whose comforting light Rani saw on her night watch.

We hope to leave for California today. We'll post some pics later when we have a better connection.

Off to the United States

Well we finally made it into US waters on August 30. Before we left, Rani made a quarantine flag from some old clothing for use in other countries when clearing into ports.

The first day was a bit rough with sustained 20 knot winds, 7 foot swells and 4 foot waves on top. We both had some doubts about the wisdom of sailing this exposed coast. As we passed Cape Flattery at supper time, we discussed turning back for Victoria (and even selling Ladybug, flying to Mexico to buy another boat!). Fortunately we persevered and we eventually adjusted to the rolling motion, breaking waves, and queasiness. Luckily, neither of us was seasick and we began our watch schedule of alternating 2 hour watches in order to get some sleep. There was surprisingly little shipping or other boats on this passage once we crossed the lanes at the entrace to the Strait of Juan de Fuca. The autopilot (named Banshee for what should be obvious reasons) helped us cover 140 nautical miles entirely under sail in less than 24 hours – a respectable distance for a 29 foot sailboat.

Sunfish off Oregon Coast

In Grays Harbour Washington we tried to clear into the US only to find out that there was no customs facility and that we should have called ahead. The coast guard folks came over to help us straighten things out and we were able to clear in through Seattle customs via the phone. As a bonus, we were issued with a written warning that will be mailed to my Dad and Mum in Nova Scotia (Folks – please don't worry when you get a formal looking envelope from Homeland Security!).

Rani in her 'coffin' berth

The next passage was the longest continuous sail I have done to date (most of my sailing has been daily passages along the coast). We sailed about 230 nautical miles over 3 days and 2 nights to Coos Bay, Oregon. We flew our newly recut spinnaker, which I had never flown even in its previous configuration as a racing spinnaker. We discovered that it was a very well patched sail. Due to the age of the repairs, the glue had failed on the patches and they fell off in a shower into the water and on the deck, leaving the spinnaker with a network of small holes and tears. This prompted us to nickname it 'Shroud of Turin', it being a very holy cloth.

Chris in front of the old coast guard station at Grays Harbour

We sailed across the Columbia river bar at night under spinnaker and had a close call with an outgoing tug. Rani really dislikes night sailing in areas with traffic and we both stayed in the cockpit watching for boats and trying to decipher all the lights. These can be very confusing and a couple of times we made pretty radical course corrections to avoid airplanes and lights on the shore that were doing excellent impersonations of approaching container ships.

We arrived In Coos Bay yesterday, pulling in here to avoid gales forecast for the next 4 days. We have met some interesting cruisers who are also harbour-bound and will rent a car to do some purchases and to visit the dunes, beaches, forests, and cliffs of the Oregon coast. Next passage will probably be to Crescent City California.

******

From Rani - Chris has summed up the last four days quite well but I have a few impressions to add myself:

It seems like we have been sailing for weeks, not days. We have lived through a lot, been very close to nature and learned a lot about each other. I think that Chris is more of a risk taker than I am even though I was labeled an adrenaline junkie a while back. Maybe it's because he knows his boat's capabilities and his own ability to handle it better than I do but I have experienced several hours of fear and prayed more in those hours than in the past year. God is probably getting sick of hearing from me! The sea has many moods ; sometimes it is so calm that one feels like a duck floating in a garden pond but at other times it is so turbulent that I feel like a fly caught in a washing machine.

Coast Guard training at Coos Bay (Charleston). The cutter in the picture goes out on training runs


Rani chatting up cute coast guard trainee



Rani sewing quarantine flag

There have been highs and lows but I would say that my highs outweigh the lows by a mile. The night crossings were my worst nightmare as the lack of depth perception in the dark hours of the night and an overactive imagination made every buoy and vessel light appear a lot closer. Chris tried to reassure me , with limited success, that not all the tugs and container ships were out to get us personally! The 4 to 7 feet swells following the boat, even at night, were not as threatening as the ships as far as I was concerned. Looking up at the starry sky, however, always had a mesmerizing and calming effect. I have never seen as many stars and the milky way as clearly as I did on those night on the sea. Looking at those galaxies beyond our little planet makes one feel very miniscule and wonder how many life forms there are out and are any of them looking down on us and questioning who and what we are?

Amongst my personal highs are the sights and sounds of the creatures of the sea – a gray whale snorting close to the Ladybug but invisible in the dark, flotillas of Stellar sea lions swimming by like a synchronised swim team, a beautiful yellow sunfish floating on the waves like a giant sunflower. The days have been sunny with blue skies and we have had ample time to sit in the cockpit to sip wine, read and feel lucky to be free of all conventional responsiblities, like work and house chores. That doesn't mean that we have nothing to do all day. Changes in the wind entail sail change and that can be hard work, especially in 4 foot swells when the boat is rocking from side to side. Cooking requires gymnastic abilities as one tries to balance while chopping vegetables with one foot wedged against the table post or settee, one hand holding the chopping board firmly on the counter and the other carefully holding the knife to avoid suicidal stabbing. While taking my weekly shower ( that's a lie, it was after 5 days really ) , I noticed some very colourful bruises all over my body from bumping into cleats, winches and various other bits of equipment on the deck. My upper body strength is also improving as I assist in hoisting sails or tacking – I guess I didn't need those exercises that you provided, Sorrell.

So, it's not all fun and frolics, folks , but I am enjoying this adventure immensely.

Cruising Barkley Sound

We are in Ucluelet, having spent a week in Barkley Sound. The overnight sail from Victoria began well with moderate Souherly winds and light seas. The wind died down gradually and as we neared Port Renfrew it died altogether, although the swell was substantial. The mainsail slatted back and forth filling as we reached the tops of each swell. A preventer to hold the boom out helped, but the small rope lashing I made up soon chafed through. We will make a better preventer with a pulley for remote adjustment and lead this back to the cockpit, prior to our departure for Washington. To avoid a second night at sea, we put the motor on off Pachena Point and let the autopilot guide us along this rugged coast, with the world renowned west coast trail to starboard. Rani appears to be immune to seasickness, working away below quite happily. She even stitched some skillful patches on our aging mainsail and wheel covers.

We spent a couple of days in Bamfield with a memorable hike to Brady's Beach and its stunning sea stacks, plus some much appreciated showers at a nearby campground. Next we crossed Imperial Eagle channel with a lovely breeze on our beam to reach Effingham Island. The bay at Effingham is the most popular all weather anchorage in the Broken Group, although we shared it with only a few other boats during our two day stay.

The next day, we inflated our double kayak and paddled to the outside islands named Wouwer ad Howell. About 50 sea lions bellowed and grunted on the offlying rocks between these islands. We paddled along the inside of Wouwer, landing on a sand beach where I had landed the year before with my friend Ian and his son Kevin. Sea lions were conversing on the small island just off this beach and the weather was pleasant with some sun to warm things up. Passing through a ribbon of old growth forest, we hiked a volcanic landscape to the sea swept outside shore of Wouwer, contemplated a dip in a particularly deep tide pool, and settled for some sunbathing on a shell beach that was sheltered from wind and spray. One of the best things about the Broken Group is its diversity in such a small space, and Wouwer's rugged beauty is a stark contrast with the softer lushness of the inner islands.

Our next destination was Joe's Bay on Turtle Island. Rani and I practiced our navigation skills to weave a course between the rocks and islets of the 'Tiny Group' – a miniature island group nestled within the Broken Group. We sailed under mainsail alone with Rani on the foredeck scouting for rocks, anchoring in the lee of Turtle island a few hundred feet from an attractive American cutter. We paddled the Helios double kayak around the sheltered lagoon formed by Turtle and several other islands, finding several types of sea stars as well as a canoe run (a cleared rock lined channel) leading to an abandoned Indian Village. The following day we paddled across to Turret Island where there is a fish trap and an impressive cedar. The scramble along the coast from where we landed to the cedar was extremely taxing and made us realize how dependent the indigenous people must have been on their canoes. On the way home we had some exciting paddling and a little dissent in the ranks when I insisted against Rani's better judgement to paddle through a rocky and foam filled pass betwee two Islands. The Helios handled the white water and to her credit, Rani paddled like an olympic champion to get us through and into safe, if somewhat turbulent waters on the other side. My penance for this was both to make supper and do all the dishes...

The trip to Ucluelet was exciting with winds gusting beyond 25 knots. Despite carrying only a small jib and reefed main we dipped the rail in a couple of gusts producing some interesting sounds from the first mate. A nice meal at an Italian restaurant gave us time to discuss the day's events and mentally prepare for our departure today.

Making Curtains, Farewell Party, and Sunset on 2nd Day

We are in Victoria doing some last minute errands (such as buying an EPIRB and fixing the SLR camera) before heading around the corner to Barclay Sound. The sail down from Maple Bay was relaxed and we visited with Jitka at Cherry Point and stopped in Sidney to collect our recut cruising Spinnaker from UK Halsey sailmakers. The weather has been mixed with plenty of rain and south east winds - things should clear up on Thursday (tomorrow) when we plan to sail for Sooke.

A few pictures from the last 2 weeks...



Curtains in Progress


Joanne and A Finished Curtain


Farewell Party at Reen's House



Reen and Joanne relaxing



Farewell Party

First Day on the Boat - Thanks Jitka for the Photo!

Sunset at Sidney Spit

Sunset at Sidney Spit again...

And yet more Sunset at Sidney Spit

Haircuts and Haulout

We are now less than a week away from our departure date, which has shifted to Sunday, August 17 for various reasons. It has been a hectic week of packing a well furnished 3 bedroom house into a small bedroom and crawlspace, sorting through clothes to select from 3 bedroom closets what will fit into 2 rubbermaid containers, and working on various boat projects.


We hauled out Ladybug and cleaned and painted her bottom, raising the waterline an inch to allow for Rani's stuff and additional stores for the trip. We waxed her sides and changed the fluids in the outboard. Although there was not much growth after 16 months in the water, her speed under motor increased by 2 knots at the same RPM! It will be critical to keep her clean on the trip and we will be doing a fair bit of in-water cleaning using a snorkel and mask.





We also learned another valuable cruising skill - how to cut each other's hair. See below for some before and after pictures. Our friend, Joanne Rife, was in control (and fixed our mistakes), explaining how to achieve a layered cut, where to leave hair fuller, and how to thin - just using a comb and scissors. We will try a small trim again this week.












Other projects completed this week include curtains (again our friend Joanne came to the rescue and helped us sew these) and installation of the autopilot. The missing wheel clamps for the autopilot arrived from the UK and installation took only an afternoon. We have also managed to squeeze in a couple of hikes, a swim in the Cowichan river, and a morning at the opening ceremonies of the Indigenous Games...

In the Cruising Mode

Last week on the way to the Cal sailboat rendezvous at Thetis Island, I finally started to get into the cruising mode. Despite there being much to do before we head south, the constant flow of jobs on the boat has slowed to a trickle and I can now relax and enjoy things. Lights winds and a change of tide around 10 am put Ladybug at Discovery Island, where I anchored off the abandoned coast guard boat shed. I hiked the trail to the lighthouse and campground beyond, snacking on some early blackberries and photographing the shoreline and passing ships. The shallows between Discovery and the Chatham Islands were full of seals including mothers with their pups. The babies nuzzled the mothers for reassurance as I rowed by in Little Bug'r (Ladybug's tender). Around 2pm, the ebb current had slowed enough to resume sailing and Ladybug drifted slowly to Sidney Spit where I dropped the hook at dusk - about 12 hours of sailing and 20 minutes under motor.

The next morning, Alex from UK Sails met me at the Port Sidney marina to take my spinnaker in to be recut as a cruising chute - this will be much easier to use than the present racing configuration, and does not cost that much. I then sailed to Maple Bay, dodging ferries and navigating Sansum narrows with a light following wind. Rani came on board at the public jetty and we sailed to Kuper Island for the night and then on the next day to Thetis Island marina where the rendezvous was being held. There were nearly 20 Cal and Crown sailboats ranging from a 23' Crown to a Cal 39, with several 29's in attendance. Apart from a barbecue, there were no organized activities and people chatted amiably on the docks or invited each other aboard their boats. It was inspiring to see how many owners had renovated their vessels with ingenious changes to make them comfortable cruising homes. I particularly liked one Cal 34, a slightly larger cousin of our 29, but much roomier, with a separate forepeak double berth, an enclosed head,and a nicely laid out galley. Definitely a classic case of two-foot-itis (or in this case 4 foot-itis as the Cal 34 is just over 33 feet long).

One incident marred the otherwise enjoyable weekend - I slipped on the brand new cedar docks and sprained my left ankle. Thankfully, a kind American woman from a nearby motor yacht saw the fall and hurried over with a huge bag of ice, produced by her onboard ice maker. This and a few other slips and scars led me to comment to one cruiser that I would probably be a multiple amputee by the time we reached Mexico!

I sailed Ladybug back from Thetis Island, dropping Rani off at Maple Bay for her last week of work, and returned to the marina to wrap up a few things. On July 31 Rani and I had a farewell 'open boat' on Ladybug and said goodbye to friends in Victoria with wine and snacks,departing once again for Maple Bay the next morning. I will miss my neighbors, Mary the gardener, with her little house boat, and John - a spry older Brit on an English-built ocean cruiser. Jim, the owner of Hidden Harbour marina, presented me with a Hidden Harbour burgee (flag) to fly from the spreaders in Ladybug's travels.

On the way to Oak Bay, I finished off the solar panel and charger installation that had occupied me during the last days at the marina, and collected a few friends for the sail to Sidney. We polished off the remnants of food from the 'open boat'as well as a few bottles of vino and chatted about life and sailing and psychology (2 of my guests were working on their PhD's in his area). It was another slow sail with light, mainly easterly winds and we only made Sidney around 8pm.
Last night (Aug 2) was Rani's going away party thrown by her friends at work. Loads of people showed up at the Pioneer House restaurant where, despite it being a steak house, vegetarian Rani was able to find a tasty Mexican entree. Rani's co-workers are a great bunch of people and I know she will miss them. They made me feel welcome, too, despite me being the cause for Rani's departure!

We haul out on Tuesday to put on copper bottom paint, service the outboard, and repair a few dings in the hull.

Getting Ready - Part 2: Gaining Experience

Compared to getting the boat prepared, gaining the necessary experience for a longer cruise has been an extended and incremental process. A few of the steps we have taken in this direction are:

• Building our practical sailing experience by day sailing, short cruises, and a couple of longer ones
• Learning to live aboard both at the dock and at anchor
• Learning to live together in confined spaces
• Sailing overnight
• Sailing in heavy weather

My longest cruise to date is around Vancouver Island, when in 2005 I sailed Optima, another CAL-29 counter clockwise from Victoria. I cruised with different crews every week or 2 and, interrupted by a bout of double pneumonia and running aground, completed the trip in 3 months. Other notable cruises include 3 weeks in Barclay Sound last summer that included 2 overnight passages, and some extended cruises in Nova Scotia ranging from a week to nearly 3 weeks.

I have lived aboard Ladybug for nearly 18 months, surviving a mild west-coast winter. Most of this time was spent at Hidden Harbour Marina in Victoria - a friendly little place near the mouth of Victoria Harbour. It has been a bit of an adjustment moving from a 1400 square foot house to a boat with about 150 square feet of usable area. Taking a morning shower requires a trip along the docks, up a ramp that can be quite steeply inclined depending on the tide, and across an acre of gravel to the lone shower/bathroom. Usually I am successful, in that no one else is using the facilities at 6:30 am, but I am occassionally foiled and end up sponging off in the boat. Laundry is a similarly distributed affair entailing a kilometer hike up hill to the nearest laundromat.

In the winter the boat becomes a walk-in cooler, so refrigeration is not the issue it becomes in the warmer months. I do not run a refrigerator, nor do I have a TV or phone hookup (I use a cell phone) reasoning that these things will not be available while cruising. I use propane for cooking and an electric space heater and bubble wrap insulation to keep warm (a kerosene bulkhead heater was used during last Christmas's cruise). [Note - I don't wear the bubble wrap - it was taped to various bits of the boat to reduce the conductivity of the thin fibreglass walls]. The boat is a neatly contained bachelor apartment and very easy to clean, but it does require a habit of neatness because your dining room is also your bedroom, living room, storage closet, and kitchen...

Rani and I have been practicing the skills of living and cruising within the confines of a boat during a brief winter cruise and a series of increasingly longer spring and summer trips. We also went winter camping in the mountains, living in a small tent for 3 days - a true test of our togetherness. So far, so good, but we are only up to 4 days in a row on the boat. The 2 week shakedown cruise planned for August 15 will be a good test of compatibility!

I have done a few overnight sails across the Strait of Juan de Fuca (busy shipping lanes) and out to Barclay Sound and back as well as a few nighttime trips in Nova Scotia. We do not have any multi-day bluewater experience. This will have to wait for our shakedown cruise or possibly the initial run down the Washington Coast.

My experience in heavy weather is limited to sailing through a few landsman's gales (30 knots or so), the tale end of a hurricane (downgraded to a tropical storm by the time it reached us), and a couple of brief gales where the wind hit 40 knots in the gusts (enough to lay over the Cal-29 with a double reefed main and no jib). I have had Leitch McBride make a heavy air jib (reefable) and have tried this out in winds to 30 knots, with great success. It remains to be seen how we and the boat will deal with our first real storm...

Getting Ready Part I - The Boat

We will be taking Ladybug, a stock US-made Cal-29 on this trip. Upgrades that have been done or are in progress include:

• New lifelines and running rigging
• Solar cells (2 X 65 Watt cells that are specially designed to fit between the stanchions and pivot to catch the sun)
• A slightly used wheelpilot (Navico WP5000) to give us a break from hand steering
• A forespar whisker pole for use in downwind runs
• A new 100% jib that reefs down to about 60% (the foot being rolled up in the same way that a mainsail is reefed). The jibs that came with the boat are original and a little tired, so this will be used in heavier airs.
• Additonal tankage for water installed where the diesel tank used to be (under the cockpit)
• A new 9.9 Yamaha high thrust outboard in a cut-out in the transom. This frees up a lot of space under the cockpit where the diesel used to live. This area now contains tools, spares, books, camping gear, and the extra water tank. The outboard has the advantage of being simple, accessible, and its position immediately behind the helmsman encourages one to sail
• A new dodger (currently under construction from a SailRite kit with the the help of my friend Jamie and his trusty Pfaff sewing machine)

There are a hundred other little things to attend to (including storm shutters for the windows, loads of spares, new oars for the hard dinghy...)

Everything comes together

I have dreamed of cruising South for nearly 20 years and have had concrete plans to do so since 2000. Only now have cirmcumstances converged to make this a reality:

1. I have just completed a 2 years Masters degree and am officially unemployed as of July 1
2. I have met a lovely woman who is a keen adventurer, does not get seasick often, and grew up without indoor plumbing (all valuable cruising traits!)
3. I have recently sold a house and have put away enough to do some extended cruising
4. I have lived on a boat for more than a year and accumulated a modest amount of cruising experience over the last 10 years - enough to risk trying a longer passage.

I would be crazy to turn away from this opportunity...